EUROVELO 12: SADDLE UP FOR A BIKE RIDE AROUND THE COAST OF THE NORTH SEA, A CARBON NEUTRAL JOURNEY

 A bicycle allows you to be immersed in its scenery and become as one with its nature and people.  In Norway, cycle route EV12 takes you across islands linked together by ferries and monster bridges.  The scenery is rugged with forests, rocks, lakes and the North Sea weaving in and out with enormous tentacles.  

Many of the communities on route are small and rely on summer visitors for their income but there are harbours that contain commercial ships and these are strangely not out of place in this landscape.  

This article is a mini travelogue for EV12 giving my experiences.  The time to visit is spring and early summer when the days are warming up and nights shortening.  My ride started in Harwich, England and finished there 72 days later. after cycling 3,762 miles (6,000km) circumnavigating the North Sea via seven countries.  Mine was a challenge ride to test myself, but EV12 is designed for short and medium distance cycle holidays.  I met people doing this.  I set off going north up the English coast at the end of April and, such was the season, spring weather accompanied me all the way to the Shetland Isles. It reverted to winter briefly in the northern highlands of Scotland with hail showers and snow on the hills.  Summer in all its gloriousness accompanied me on my return through Denmark, Germany and the Netherlands.  

At the start, the gentle landscape and picturesque villages of East Anglia in England gradually gave way to huge rivers and wide open fields in Lincolnshire. EV12 crosses the massive Humber Bridge, over 2km long that claims to be the longest cycle suspension bridge in the World.  

Suffolk Idyl

Yorkshire, Durham and Northumberland are counties of strongly contrasting landscapes.  EV12 passes through the densely populated urban and industrial areas of Teesside and the Tyne.  Much of the landscape between is sparsely populated with rugged hills and moors to the west and an agricultural coastal plain.  Ancient castles appear which were built to defend against Scottish and Scandinavian invaders.  Time should be given over to explore some of the fishing villages from here to Shetland to learn about a fascinating history of herring fishing and sampling sea food meals.

 

Northumberland Beach

Experiencing Scotland is to find a country of epic natural landscapes, engaging cities and a rich cultural heritage. It feels like an adventure the moment the border is crossed north of Berwick.  I enjoyed discovering Scotland's ancient and modern ports where fishing, oil terminals and wind energy are the lifeline of the local economy.  My younger daughter joined me at Aberdeen to Dingwall.

My younger daughter accompanies me on route to the Moray Firth

Moray Coast

It's 1,230 miles from Harwich to John O Groats following EV12.  For cycle challenges, that's 200 miles longer than Lejog but less than a third of the way around the coast of the North Sea. 

John O' Groats

My older daughter joined me at Thurso to cycle around Orkney and Shetland Isles. We catch the evening passenger ferry from John O' Groats to Burwick, then circumnavigate both Orkney and Shetland mainland islands. We cross the Churchill Barriers to Kirkwall and the following day experience the island's prehistoric heritage and numerous lochs.  We arrive in Shetland in thick fog which gives way to strong winds and beautiful views of remote hills, open moorland, tiny lochs with the sea never far away.

Shetland

An unusual feature of EV12 in Shetland is to cycle across the runway of Sumburgh Airport to reach the terminal building.  There were no ferries to Bergen in Norway, so I swallowed my pride for a plane ride.

Bergen is in the heart of the fjords where I was joined by a friend from Finland,  Houses cling to the hillside with majestic views.  We found time to explore its wharf, then set off for Stavanger, 155 miles away and were joined by a Norwegian who used his bike for work.   

Stavanger, Norway

From the outset, I found Norway to be cycle friendly with many cycle lanes and motorists being courteous.  

Cycle Route Was Well Signed

 

Head of Fjord

When I crossed the border into Sweden, I learned how tough some Scandinavian people are.  The weather was cool and drizzle.  I stopped for a snack overlooking a fjord when a Swedish lady cycled up to me, introduced herself, then went for a swim.  The water looked freezing but she said she went swimming every day.  I cycled on through Gothenburg to Varberg for the ferry to Denmark.  

Denmark was very enjoyable with friendly people.  EV12 encompasses Jutland with its beautiful coastline and skies that make artists shriek with joy.  I had a rest day in Skagen with Grenen on its northern tip where two seas collide.  I stood in the sea looking north with my right foot in the Baltic Sea and left foot in the North Sea,

Grenen, Denmark, looking north

Skagen

Unusual camping pod, Skagen

It was well marked easy trails on my journey with fine weather, albeit windy at times.  Heading south from Skagen, at various times, I cycled along sand dunes, forest trails, over open moorland and alongside extensive wetlands that are of international importance both for breeding birds and migratory birds.  

More people speak English in Germany than I expected.  I continued to be dazzled by nature as I cycled alongside the Wadden Sea.  My first encounter was with two German cyclists who stopped me to ask directions.  I had a brilliant guide book from Bikeline, so was able to help.  My favourite experience (among many) was the hospitality of a German family who took me in when I could not find any accommodation at the end of a long day.  An unusual experience was to cycle alongside a huge cargo ship steaming upstream on the River Elbe to Hamburg.  We matched each other for speed until the road turned sharp left and the cargo ship reached Hamburg first. After Hamburg, EV12 passes this impressive transporter bridge.

Osten -Hemmor Transporter Bridge

Holland was the last country of my cycle challenge.  Everyone was so friendly.  There continue to be lots of dykes to cycle on as well as viewing countryside and villages.  We cross the Zirder Zee, 20 miles of road out to sea.  My journey finished at Hook of Holland, but EV12 continues into France.

Everyone cycles in Holland.

Approaching Journey's End

For more information, including route, places to visit, etc, please check Eurovelo website for EV12.  Enjoy.

EUROVELO 1: LIFE IN THE SADDLE ON THE ATLANTIC COAST BY BIKE

Long sandy beaches, forest trails and bustling towns in the south of France gave way to countryside lively with wildlife, pleasant rolling hills, artichoke fields and always plenty of restaurants with great food as my friend and I cycled north. 

Soulac Sur Mer

In 2008 I had completed lejog (Lands End to John O' Groats) and was working out what my next long distance cycle tour would be.  I learned about the ECF (European Cycling Federation) whose proposals were for a long distance cycle route from Spain to Norway.  To be known as EV1, it was not yet mapped, so I decided what better way than to work out my own route.  I realized that I might have done part of it already on lejog.  I thought that this should be undertaken in sections over 2 week periods.  My daily average on tours was always 80 km, a distance I was comfortable with on my fully loaded and trusty Trek cyclocross bike, adapted for touring. 

Cycle path on route to La Rochelle

Today, the ECF has established 19 Eurovelo long distance cycle routes across the breadth of Europe with much either built or in progress.  EV1 is 11,150 km long.

In June 2011, it felt like the start of an adventure when I loaded my panniers, headed for Plymouth's ferry port and set sail for Santander in Spain.  I joined what would become EV1 at San Sebastian in Spain which could not be a better place.  Nestling around a picturesque harbour set amidst a fine old town, it was a cycle friendly city in Basque country and felt vibrant.  

Leaving San Sebastian, I could see the Pyrenees Mountains behind me to the south and cycled north alongside a rugged coastline.  Once over the French border, I hoped to sample the French rural way of life, see the coast, experience wildlife, eat local food and enjoy the wine.  

This was to be the most southerly part of my European journeys that took me to Bergen in Norway via EV1 and to cycle the entire EV12, thus visiting 11 countries on the way.  

I have often been asked what are my favourite parts, and find that the answer is nearly impossible.  It could be Co Mayo in Ireland where I tried to learn to speak Irish and has an outstanding coastline with dramatic hinterland, or wildness in Mull in Scotland where on two totally wild rides I found sea eagles and listened to the roar of stags seeking mates.  I discovered the infamous Scottish midges with the first ride but the day was glorious sunshine and I outran the midges.  The second was in a hail storm. Experiencing the Atlantic coast comes with weather.  The best weather has to be in France, but be prepared for everything once you arrive in the British Isles.  On Sheepshead in Ireland, a ferocious gale was such that I could only manage 4mph going downhill.  Further on in Kerry, the sun shone gloriously.  

I have learned a lot about myself when cycling.  It's a great omen for planning any bike tour.  It starts that my body is capable of much more than I ever thought possible.  The mind relaxes to enjoy the fresh open air and concentrate what's around you.  The world of work disappears.  

Wildlife is less afraid when on a bike.  I can feel and sense the countryside around me.

I have never enjoyed cycling on busy main roads, so pick times of the year when roads are quieter and accommodation is easier to find.  I follow side roads and cycle trails wherever possible.  April, May, June, September and October are my favourite months.  Having given a glimpse of France, this is travelling north.  

The English section is between Plymouth and Bristol.  We cross remote Dartmoor and Exmoor, then discover the Somerset Levels, wetlands that are a haven for wildlife. Time should be taken to explore both Plymouth and Bristol, two of England's great maritime cities, with stories of Sir Francis Drake and Isambard Kingdom Brunel.  

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Drakes Trail, Plymouth

When cycling through Wales, the route follows the coast to Pembroke Dock and Fishguard for ferries to Ireland.  I wanted to experience the Brecon Beacons, so left EV1 at Chepstow and followed the valley of the River Usk to beyond Brecon.  I re-joined EV1 at Carmarthen and enjoyed the scenery taking the Irish Ferry from Pembroke.  

The size of this tree in the Brecon Beacons Impressed Me

Tenby

I have been to Ireland many times and have found myself charmed on every visit.  EV1 starts at Rosslaire Harbour and finishes at Belfast, though I went to Larne.  There is so much to enjoy that I don't know where to start.  The five fingers of the south west are dramatic and beautiful.  There is plenty of wonderful hospitality too.  To maximise enjoyment, I recommend cycling around the whole coastline of the Five Fingers, Mizen, Sheepshead, Beara, Kerry and Dingle.  Everywhere beforehand and afterwards enchanted me.

There is no need to hurry in Ireland

Rush hour in Co Mayo

I have cycled in Scotland many times too.  It has dramatic scenery to drink in.  My ferry arrived in Troon for a short hop to Ardrossan where another ferry took me to the Isle of Arran.  It was 60 miles to cycle the coastline of Arran and definitely worth it.  Another ferry took me to the Kintyre Peninsula for the road north to Fort William.  It's best to avoid the main road as it's too narrow for cyclists and carries lots of cars.  There is a much more enjoyable and scenic route keeping to National Cycle Route 78, then carry on to up the Great Glen to Inverness.

Arran is Scotland in Miniature

On Route between Inverness and Aberdeen

The final section follows the Moray coast, then inland to Aberdeen.  I spent much time enjoying the ancient fishing harbours along the coast and discovered a local delicacy of Cullen Skink, a comforting soup made with haddock, potatoes, milk, onion, parsley and crusty roll.  Historically, the fisherman would have used herring.  

My journey finished in Bergen in Norway where I joined another long distance route EV12 to head south.  This was my introduction to Norway

Bergen

I hope that I have given a taste of the Atlantic coast by bike. To find out more, please visit this link for EV1. There are an increasing number of tour operators for guided rides or self guiding adds to the challenge but is fun.

The Moray Coast

EUROVELO 1 IN THE SOUTH WEST

 If you are cycling the Devon C2C between Plymouth and Barnstaple, you may seen new NCN direction signs with EU motif containing number 1 in the middle.  This is EU cycle route Eurovelo 1 and is part of a long distance route between Portugal and Norway, a total distance of 5,610 miles. It's named the Atlantic Coast Cycle Route and other countries include Spain, France, UK and Ireland. 

EV1, as it is known, follows Europe's western border combining contrasting landscapes such as the majestic fjords of Norway, the wild Irish coastline and, of course, our beautiful south west England. 

Having cycled the French, Irish, Scottish sections and a small part of Norway before it was signed, I can vouch for the iconic scenery that will make it a pleasure to experience from the saddle. 

The itinerary in the South West is between Plymouth ferry terminal and Bristol.  It follows the Devon C2C to Sheepwash where it joins the West Country Way. EV1 signs take you to Barnstaple where we leave the Devon C2C and continue on the Westcountry Way to Bristol.

For me, Sheepwash epitomises Devon.  It has thatched cottages, a beautiful pub, a magical river and is a place where fishermen and cyclists can mingle over a pint after a long day on the river or in the saddle.  

EV1 in the south west is a journey to be experienced enjoying nature. Delays are more likely to be by cows, sheep or horses, less so by cars.

The route from Plymouth takes you across western Dartmoor and passes Britain's newest railway at Okehampton.  We experience both of Devon's coastlines at the south and north. We leave Barnstaple and head inland for Exmoor towards Dulverton and Taunton. After cycling along the towpath beside the Bridgwater Canal, we enter the Somerset Levels and travel to Glastonbury and Wells eventually reaching Bristol.  

When it comes to cycle route planning, I am a geek for maps, but keep my records electronically. These are my tips.

First check out Eurovelo 1 and be prepared to be impressed: Eurovelo 1

Buy Devon C2C map between Plymouth and Barnstaple: Devon C2C . Follow NCN27

Buy Sustrans North Devon cycle map North Devon. Follow NCN3

Buy Sustrans Somerset Levels cycle map Somerset Levels. Follow NCN3 and NCN4.

I think that you will find this to be an astonishing and sensuous journey.  

Postscript: Memorable Moment

My final day cycling this route in November 2012 ended in an epic rainstorm that closed the nearby railway and M5 motorway.  This was cycling upstream on a path on a never to be forgotten day approaching Cossington on NCN3.

MY BIKE TOURS IN A NUTSHELL

 I am proud that I have lived most of my working life in Devon.  It's given me the opportunity to enjoy our great outdoors.  Apart from two gorgeous coastlines, we have remote moorland, wild rivers, many of England's remaining rainforests and lots of historic villages.  

I took up cycling at 50 and wondered if I was too old to try a new sport.  I used to cycle 5 miles each way to school when I was a child, and my bike gave me independence, something I never forgot.  It's 27 years later and my enthusiasm is undiminished.  I have discovered that my body has allowed me to do much more than I expected and I have visited many parts of the world with my bike.  It's been a great adventure and in age of climate crisis I have relied minimally on fossil fuels.  Here is my bike life in a nutshell:

2018/9: The coastline of Ireland, Rosslaire - Dublin clockwise

2017: Wales, Lon Las Cymru (third time), the Radnor Ring

2016: Spanish Pyrenees,

2015: Devon - Scotland, via Wales, Ireland and Northern Ireland

2014: Avignon - Barcelona

2013: The Hebrides (second time)

2012: The Alps

2011: The French Atlantic Coast

2010: The North Sea Cycle Route

2008: Lands End - John O Groats, via Ireland

2006: Mongolia

2004: Andes Trek from Chile to Argentina

2002: Cuba

These are some noteworthy facts:

• Longest journey: North Sea Cycle Route: 6,019km in 72 days
• Most distance in one day: 240km
• Biggest hills: Khangai Mountains (Mongolia), Mont Ventoux (France), Bealach Na Ba (Scotland),
• Bike: Trek A0 Cyclocross converted to touring has done 71,000km. I also have a Thorn Nomad and now an e-bike

Today, I cycle my local lanes in Devon and love to encourage people to find their own adventures.

Inch Beach, Dingle, Ireland

Stories of these rides are on my blog.  My first tour after leaving school was to cycle along the A40 from High Wycombe to Wales.  This was when there was much less motor traffic and cycling felt safe.  If you wish to plan a bike tour, these are two websites to give you ideas:

• Europe: Eurovelo
• United Kingdom: Sustrans

I hope that this in a small way encourages more people to choose a bicycle to travel.

EXPLORE DEVON

There are few places in Devon that I have not been to with my bike. The guide books for Lejog will tell you that Devon and Cornwall are the toughest for hills. I have cycled Lejog and found my way through Cornwall avoiding many of the hills but not in Devon. Devon's hills are not long. It's just that there are lots of them and many are steep. They just go up and down. There are some lovely family friendly traffic free routes too and Devon Coast to Coast is a longer distance route where the hills are more modest. I try to avoid cycling main roads. The joy in Devon is to explore country lanes, devoid of traffic from coastline to coastline, Dartmoor, South Hams, Mid, West and North Devon. 

Mini-adventures with a mountain bike can be found on Dartmoor such as the Drover's Trail from Hexworthy and the Puffing Billy from Ivybridge as below

The coasts are busy in high season but quiet lanes and traffic free paths can be found. The view over Woolacombe Bay on Devon's Coast to Coast route is iconic.  The tiny coastal route from Ilfracombe to Minehead must be one of the most compelling and challenging. Below is Slapton Lea in the south

Inland Devon between Exmoor and Dartmoor is tranquil and cycling feels almost as if it is from a byegone era. There are beautiful villages, thatched roofs and rural pubs with proper food. Below is Iddesleigh, home to War Horse country

My leg is on the road to recovery. On my electric bike, I managed 55 miles with 1,300m ascent to Moretonhampstead and back last week. It needed less than a full charge of the battery but I took my charger just in case. Now that the worst of the pandemic is over, I hope to reacquaint myself with many parts of Devon that I have not seen for a while. Keep pedalling

FORWARD INTO 2022

 Have you ever hit the wall on any of your bike rides?  2021 was not a good year as I hit the wall twice.  I hope I have overcome them and am looking forward to a rejuvenated self in 2022.

I have a Corratec gravel e-bike with Fazua motor and Bosch battery.  It has now done about 200 miles and it suits me well.  Unfortunately, an injury last November is taking a long time to heal.  When I feel that I am making progress, it bights me in the back and I had a recurrence yesterday.  I sometimes think back to tours and have many pleasant memories.  Today, it is wet and very windy and not ideal for a bike ride.  When I woke up, I thought of four consecutive days on tour cycling in south west Ireland in 2018 when the weather was like today.  I was at Goleen on the Mizen peninsula and have been there before.  It’s a beautiful location with excellent cycling.  I stayed two nights and the first day I did a loop ride around the peninsula.  The second day, I cycled to Sheep's Head, then Beara peninsulas. Sheep's Head I did over one day but I had to take a short cut on Beara as the gale was ferocious.  On the fourth, I cycled to Kenmare.  It was wet and blowing a gale for the whole journey but it gave a sense of achievement.  On route, I stopped in various bars for refreshments and several times got involved in conversations.  People probably thought of me as a crazy Englishman. 

Here are two photos, the first  in better weather from a previous ride

Beara in better weather

The Road to Sheep's Head in a Gale

Here's to 2022 whatever it may hold

WHAT'S HAPPENING IN SOUTH DEVON

 The Tour of Britain came through South Devon on 6 September. I have never seen Ivybridge so energised. People came out visibly excited and a great roar went up as a cavalcade of outriders appeared. There was tooting of horns, cheering and waving. Then the lead group appeared and went through as quick as a flash. But the expectation increased and the news was that the pelaton was 6 minutes behind. We all knew that this would be thrilling and so it was.  Ivybridge has never seen more than 100 cyclists race up Fore Street at astonishing speeds. If there was a moment to savour, this was it.

I have never watched a bike race live before but now I was hooked. It was on ITV4 and I watched the highlights of every day. I recorded the Devon section live and watched every minute.  I have cycled many of these roads often and had encounters with sheep exactly as the race.

Congratulations should be given to Devon County Council for bringing the race to our county. Watching the scenery on the TV reminded me how wonderful our county is.  Congratulations should be given to Ivybridge Town Council too. They helped to make it a day to remember. They organized the day around children and started with a story teller in the library.  She told stories about cycling.  At 11am the roads were handed over to children and they made their special creations in chalk art on the tarmac.  Sustrans are helping our area considerably and today the volunteers manned a marquee giving out badges, stickers and flags to all the children together with information on walking and cycling in Plymouth and South Devon

Many of the shops and pubs put bikes in their windows and decorated them with a prize for the winner. Lastly there was a family bike ride organized by Sustrans which I led.  There were 24 cyclists and the average age of children was 6.  When we returned, the mayor was there to greet us and she presented medals to everyone who took part.

If this is what cycling does for a community, I am proud to have been there