CYCLING THE COAST OF CO CLARE

At Kilkee, I was mesmerised by the sea. I had arrived the previous evening fighting a headwind. There were no hills of note but headwinds are very draining.




Kilkee's Reef with a swell

 I decided to have a rest day and Kilkee looked to be ideal. The little town overlooks a horseshoe shaped bay and I could see a sandy beach protected by a large reef. The waves were breaking over the reef dramatically and at the far end they exploded against the cliffs lifting the water over 10 metres into the air. The beach however was calm. I watched the little waves roll up onto the sand. To the left a flock of birds seemed that they were playing with these waves. As they came in the birds ran up the beach to escape getting their feet wet. However as the waves receded, the birds chased after them jumping into the water until the next wave came then it happened all over again. As I watched I discovered that they were  feeding. It seemed that they were taking micro-organisms from the surface. I think that these little birds may have been turnstones.
I saw my first currachs at Kilkee. They are ancient fishing boats made with a timber frame and originally covered with animal skins. Today they are still in use usually made with canvas. They are unique to the west coast of Ireland but are related to the Welsh coracle. My wife went on a course about 10 years ago and made a coracle. It took her 4 days. Today hers will not float because it has a hole in it. Clare's coastline is quite different to those I experienced earlier. For the cyclist, excluding the climb to the Cliffs of Moher, there are less hills and for me happily the weather was kinder. I wanted to see the Burren, an unusual landscape of limestone pavements in North West Clare where wild flowers thrive in the cracks. They are surrounded by a patchwork of small fields enclosed by stone boundary walls and grazed by cattle. I arrived too early in the season to see the wild flowers. I stopped to take photographs and in the distance I could see the Aran Isles


What I did not expect were more stunning beaches. First there was Lahinch, an obvious surfers' paradise with surf shops, coaching facilities and what seemed to be great eating places to hang out. Then I came across Fanore. Rarely have I seen such an unspoilt stunning beach that had a beautiful backdrop of dunes protecting the land behind.

Lahinch

Fanore Beach at low tide

Limestone pavement, the Burren

On the way I passed Doolin which looked like a fun place to visit but decided against stopping at the Cliffs of Moher. It was too busy and I have been there before they built the giant car park.


As if to cater for hungry cyclists with a taste for the exotic, my next discovery was Vasco's  close to Fanore where I indulged with the most amazing pudding and ice cream. My trip finished at Galway.


To date I have cycled 818 miles and climbed 44,000ft. I continue to put my daily maps and more images on Twitter where I have also made favourable comments on cyclists' safety here in Ireland.

DINGLE PENINSULA

Every now and again, the weather here presents its little challenges. Yesterday I completely missed seeing Brandon Bay because I was in the cloud line and today my ride through North Kerry was in light rain. However it did enable me to stop in a bar at Annascaul and have a lively chat about walking in the area. I have spent three days on the peninsula and today arrived at Kilkee.
At Inch I was stopped by a couple from Arkansas in the USA. They had seen me two days previously and wanted to know all about my ride. Here is their picture of me




Inch Beach

I have seen several people on hikes on the peninsulas. The trails seem to be well waymarked and people are given choices ranging from short loop walks to long distance trails that take several days.
On Slea Head it is possible to visit several sites of historical interest. The Great Famine in the 1840's was a period of devastation where many people starved to death or from disease and large numbers emigrated.  I visited Slea Head Famine Cottages where some old buildings have been restored as a memorial. Here is an image

Farmer's Cottage, Slea Head Memorial Centre

I met a couple from Rhode Island, USA who were researching their family history of the Moriarty's. The weather was sunny on Slea Head so here are a few images taken from some of its little bye-lanes

Ventry Bay

The Three Sisters

Kilmalkedar

I am continuing to put my daily maps and some images on twitter. Tomorrow I am cycling north on Co Clare's coast

GOODBYE CORK, HELLO KERRY

As an expedition, I have completed 555 miles and climbed 31,272ft.  I have finished the south coast and four of the five peninsulas in the South West. It is Dingle tomorrow. I have experienced extreme weather from fierce Atlantic gales to glorious sunshine and there are still 1,100 miles to go.


It is not an expedition though. This is a journey that connects all the places I have been to previously in Ireland. Cycling and hiking are the best ways to experience the countryside. Both meander slowly in the great outdoors unhindered by the speed of a car so that you see and hear everything. I am putting my daily maps and many images on twitter. My maps show the route, distance, climbing and my slow speed. Here are a few images of Beara and Kerry

Trawlers in Castletownbere sheltering from a storm

An abandoned fishing smack near Lauragh on Beara

Portmagee evening, Kerry

Darrynane Bay, Kerry

Traffic Congestion, on cycle route between Cahersiveen and Kells

I saw my first bluebells three days ago. The patchwork of fields and hedgerows are coming alive with the green shoots of Spring. My bike is looking very weather beaten but I had to put sun cream today for the first time. There was time for a chat with the shepherd and he told me that the oldest lamb in this flock was 12 days old.

MIZEN AND SHEEP'S HEAD

The weather has changed. I have just discovered that the beautiful South West of Ireland also has lots of rain. Sometimes it is windy too. Undaunted my philosophy is that there is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothes.
I leaves Mizen Head to take a tiny lane along the north coast that undulates over the rugged landscape. Occasionally there are houses nestled into hollows looking north towards Sheep's Head.  It is raining hard and I am finding it difficult seeing ahead. I round a bend to find a herd of cattle blocking the lane. I cycle slowly towards them and all but two amble out of the way. The other two refuse to move so I gently weave between them hoping not to receive a kick. Four miles further on, I see 4 cyclists huddled under a tree. "Not great weather for cycling" I call and they agree. After two hours, I reach a coffee shop and go in leaving water all over the floor. The rain stops and the sun tries to appear
The forecast for the following day is 45 mph winds and up to 50mm rain. I had planned to cycle to Sheep's Head but wondered if this is a good idea. I go anyway. The wind chases me for the first two hours and I arrive at Durrus wondering why I was fussing.
After a welcome coffee, the route changes direction. This time I am cycling into the wind and it is strong. I grip the handlebars tightly and resolve not to get blown over. I decide to find a B+B early and discover an old farmhouse at Kilcrohane. "This is just perfect" I say and gorge some sandwiches offered by the host for lunch.
I decide that the Sheep's Head must be seen and my host warns against it but I go anyway. The wind roars through the trees and power lines are waving around. I can see the waves from the sea below slamming the shore angrily. Undaunted I keep going until 400 metres from the summit the wind becomes too strong. Reluctantly I turn back only to find a section of road going downhill where the fiercest wind slows me to 4 mph in low gear. I pull into the bar in Kilcrohane and savour 2 pints of Guinness

THE SOUTH COAST OF IRELAND ON TWO WHEELS

I am on the Mizen Peninsula one week after arriving in Ireland. My energy has returned after it was seriously flagging at one stage. This ride is an exploration of Ireland's coast and today I have finished the South coast. It was 340 miles of undulating coastline with craggy cliffs, sandy coves, big headlands and penetrating sea inlets.
This is Darren and he works for MTM Cycles at Clonakilty. He is replacing my rear wheel.

Darren finishing the repair of my Bike

This is how I met him. I had arrived at a beautiful unspoilt beach when there was a loud ping from my rear wheel. A spoke had snapped and buckled the wheel in the process. My next destination was Clonakilty 15 km away. I gently nursed the bike taking care to go slowly and only use the front brakes. If another spoke broke it would have meant walking. Thankfully I found Darren at MTM Cycles at 4pm. Darren got permission from his boss to do an immediate repair and at 5.30pm I was on the road again. What a great bike shop and here is how to find it MTM Cycles


This is the beach

Dunworly Bay

It has taken 6 days to reach Mizen Peninsula. The cyclist needs to be prepared for hills and to enjoy the splendour of this coastline.  It is not for fast endurance riding. As well as seeing the countryside, I enjoy listening to its sounds. It might be from the milk parlour of a nearby farm. The sounds of birds are wonderful, especially as there are so many here.  I have no idea what most of them are. A favourite that I do recognise is the chough which I have encountered several times.


Apart from Cork City, there are no major towns and, if desired, Cork can be avoided by going through Cobh and taking a ferry. There are many small fishing harbours. The area is a mix of fertile farmland, rich peat bogs and wetlands. All the way I am finding the coastline to be dramatic. The image below is a B+B that I stayed in at Goleen as it nicely shows the setting of the far south west

Herons Cove, Goleen

Tomorrow I leave the Mizen and head for Sheep's Head Peninsula. I have more images on Twitter

JOURNEY THROUGH THE SOUTH EAST

It was Colm who sorted me out at the end of Day 3. Colm was a farmer. He was dark haired, slim and looked about 40. I had taken a wrong turning on a rural lane and had come to a junction that had no signs. I did not know which way to go. A big Massey Ferguson tractor pulling a livestock trailer arrived and I stopped it to ask directions.
"Where do you want to go?" asked Colm. "Ballycotton" I replied. "Ah" said Colm "It is about 3 miles as the crow flies but the road is much longer than that. Follow me as I am going in that direction". The tractor set off at 10 mph and I was fine so long as there were no hills. After a while, Colm stopped. "I must check my bull as I don't want him escaping". Having seen a bull coming towards me on a similarly sized Dartmoor lane about 3 months ago, I was quite keen not to encounter a second one. Colm checked the door fixings and said they were fine. Up a hill he went and I could not keep up but he waited at the top. Colm did as his word and I went on my way. Moreover he found me a very comfy B+B for the night.
I hear tales of other cyclists on this journey. The Copper Coast Route is a killer for many. It is stunningly beautiful and reminds me of Cornwall with its craggy coastline and history of copper mining. I am told cycling has become hugely popular in Ireland. It is possible to avoid the Copper Coast Route and take the newly opened Waterford Greenway that links to Dungarven. This is 45km long and family friendly.
My first day in Wexford, I followed Eurovelo 1 which was impressively signed. It changed to Route 4 and then 3 to the border with Co Cork when the signs stopped.
I am trying to follow the coastline on this trip. So often beautiful places have been developed into holiday destinations and have as a consequence lost their magic. Not so in Ireland. I have already found many beautiful bays, wildlife friendly estuaries and plenty of little harbours with fishermen hard at work.
Tonight at the end of day 4, I am in Kinsale having covered 218 miles and climbed 11,200ft. Kinsale is the start of the Wild Atlantic Way and I will be following this and taking a few detours. Here are some images

Artwork on a shipwreck in Bannow Bay

Hook Lighthouse

Dungarven harbour

HELLO IRELAND

A solitary cyclist is seen pedalling along a Pembrokeshire lane. He is easily recognizable from a pair of bright yellow panniers and is wearing a red jacket.  The bike is sturdy with American markings and has the worn appearance that it has done many miles.  It has an unusual pair of double handlebars and carries a map case.  He is enjoying the warm early Spring sunshine.  He sees the hedgerows awaking from their winter slumber and observes wild garlic, primroses and celandine.  A couple on Bromptons ask him where he is going.  "Ireland" is the reply and they say they are touring Pembrokeshire.


At the ferry terminal, a van driver too asks where he is going and then tells his own story.  He says his doctor told him to turn around his lifestyle 18 months ago or he will die young.  He was very overweight.  He has since lost 4 stone and now goes out regularly to keep himself fit.  Yesterday he cycled 100km into Wales.  Like the cyclist, he is a volunteer with Sustrans and both know Adam, their regional volunteer coordinator.


The cyclist pedalled alongside the cars into the enormous cargo hold of Irish Ferries, The Earl of Inishmore.  As he pedalled inside, a cheery young lady called out to him to have a great journey.  The cyclist removed his panniers and went to find a comfy lounge seat and settle down.  After a while the soft Irish brogue of the captain came over the loud speaker and invited us all to have a great crossing.


I am now at a welcoming B+B at Kilrane near Rosslare and Eurovelo 1 Cycle Route is outside the door

A WORD FROM MY SHED

During the winter months I often think about my next big bike ride and this year it will be my second longest ever. Today even though it is damp and windy, the signs of Spring are starting to appear. The hedgerows are alive with primroses and bluebells have woken up from their winter slumber to show their leaves. It does not seem long before their colours will appear in all their glory. Frogspawn appeared a month ago and the birds are pairing off to rear their young.

This sets the scene for my ride around Ireland for the scenery and wildlife is stunning. I will be starting very soon. Ireland's coastline is dramatic with steep cliffs, sandy coves, little harbours and plentiful wildlife. It is this that I want to discover in 2018. I want to take lots of photographs and keep a record of my journey on this blog. To show you what cycling around the coastline involves this will be my first day (or days)




Rosslare - Ballyhack
 

I have been to Ireland before. I hope that this journey will be my best yet