A SUMMER CYCLE TOUR IN MAYO, IRELAND

Sometimes a photo asks a question. In this case, where in the World is this?

It could be the Med or the Bahamas or Broome on Australia's north coast, all exotic places and a long way from home. This is Elly Bay on the Atlantic coast of Erris Island in Co Mayo, Ireland. It is still a long way from Devon but you don't need a plane to get there. Erris Island was named as the best place to go wild by the Irish Times in 2014


Mayo thinks of itself as the adventure capital of Ireland. It sits on the north west coast looking out into the Atlantic and this is where I visited next with my bike tour around Ireland's coast. It is an understatement to say that the coastline is enormous. It weaves in and out like the tentacles of a giant drunken octopus. Islands are everywhere you look. Some are connected with bridges, others require a ferry and with some you need your own boat to get to there. Inland there are vast areas of bog and ranges of hills spring up randomly. I would like to say that the coastal strip is flat and mostly it is but now and again there are big hills to be climbed. My passion is cycle touring but here is photo of others enjoying the great outdoors

I enjoyed earlier seeing Galway Hookers, the traditional fishing boats in Galway Bay. In Mayo, they still use currachs, albeit today their skins are fibreglass and here are two in the foreground tied up ready for use

Coming up the coast from Connemara' national park, a fjiord and Mweelrea Mountain, 819m high, block the way into Mayo so a detour inland is required. On route to Westport, another mountain, Croagh Patrick comes into view. Nicknamed the Reek, it is 764m high and a pilgrimage for many Irish people. It is a long bike ride around Clew Bay and I enjoyed a day off in Westport. Achill was worth the detour with spectacular cliffs and kite surfing

I could have spent three weeks just cycling the entire coastline of Mayo but I only had one week so some places have been left out. It was gorgeous and happily the weather was mostly fine so long as the wind was accepted. I weaved in and out of tiny lanes on route to Bangor and twice took wrong turns. I just had to visit Belmullet and Erris Island and here is a photo of Achill taken from Black Sod, the southern tip of Erris

Sadly I missed a section of the north coast, primarily because I could not find any accommodation but it enabled me to see Mayo's spectacular wilderness centre with a backdrop behind of the Nephin Beg mountains, said to be the loneliest area in Ireland

I am keeping daily photos and maps of my route on https://twitter.com/cycle770 so please keep following

THREE DAYS IN CONNEMARA

Located in the north west of Co Galway, Connemara is an area of desolate natural beauty and incredible scenery. This is the start of my latest cycle ride around the coastline of Ireland. Local tourism say the best way to see Connemara is by car. Actually it's not. The best way by far is to get on a bike, travel slow and feel the fresh air. Looking at the photo below, I would have missed this place in a car but this delightful spot was easily found down a rough track on our bikes and my friend went wild swimming.

Our first experience from the road leaving Galway City was to see large numbers of gannets diving fearlessly into the sea at a near vertical angle to catch their prey. This is one of nature's wonders.

Galway Hookers are a traditional way of preserving the past and we soon discover a pair tied in harbour

Local people say these vessels are in their DNA, their bones, hearts and heads. Historically they were the traditional fishing boats for the area designed to work in the harsh Atlantic weather and today they live on with many restored and others built new with modern facilities

We cycle through Clifden to Leenaun travelling 130 miles and taking three days. The coast is wild with seemingly unpolluted waters while inland we view boglands and rivers winding their way through numerous small lakes. In the distance there are the 12 Pins of Connemara, a range of mountains providing a stunning backdrop. This is an encouraging start. Please also view twitter for my latest tweets.

IRELAND BECKONS

It's time to call out my new Thorn Nomad and start a fresh journey. Shortly I will be in Galway on Ireland's west coast. I plan to cycle along Connemara's coastline into Mayo, then head north into Sligo and on to Donegal. I hope to smell the sea as I cycle and feel the fresh Atlantic air. I want to see currachs, fishing boats unique to the west coast of Ireland and Slieve League in Donegal, almost three times higher than the Cliffs of Moher. I want also to reach Malin Head, Ireland's most northerly point and I hope to learn a few words of Irish Gaelic.

This will be the Nomad's first long journey. Here is a photo. It was taken on the Cobbly Way beside the River Avon in South Devon. It does not look special except it seems to have no gears. There are 14 inside the rear wheel hub made by Rolhoff. The gear changing is on the right handlebar and is really easy. The bike is made by Thorn Cycles of Bridgwater and is built for long distance touring.

 

 



 

Ireland has a magnetic pull for me. Last year I cycled around its south and south west coasts. Previously I cycled from Lands End to John O' Groats via Ireland and another trip was from Devon to Glasgow via Sligo. I don't have a favourite place but have many memorable moments and often they are associated with the weather. Perhaps last year describes it best for while cycling around the Sheeps Head in a gale I found it extremely hard work doing 4mph going downhill in bottom gear.  Three days later I was on the Ring of Kerry in the most glorious sunshine. Apparently the storm reached 100mph during the night. Please check my Twitter as well if you follow my journey

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