EUROVELO 12: SADDLE UP FOR A BIKE RIDE AROUND THE COAST OF THE NORTH SEA, A CARBON NEUTRAL JOURNEY

 A bicycle allows you to be immersed in its scenery and become as one with its nature and people.  In Norway, cycle route EV12 takes you across islands linked together by ferries and monster bridges.  The scenery is rugged with forests, rocks, lakes and the North Sea weaving in and out with enormous tentacles.  

Many of the communities on route are small and rely on summer visitors for their income but there are harbours that contain commercial ships and these are strangely not out of place in this landscape.  

This article is a mini travelogue for EV12 giving my experiences.  The time to visit is spring and early summer when the days are warming up and nights shortening.  My ride started in Harwich, England and finished there 72 days later. after cycling 3,762 miles (6,000km) circumnavigating the North Sea via seven countries.  Mine was a challenge ride to test myself, but EV12 is designed for short and medium distance cycle holidays.  I met people doing this.  I set off going north up the English coast at the end of April and, such was the season, spring weather accompanied me all the way to the Shetland Isles. It reverted to winter briefly in the northern highlands of Scotland with hail showers and snow on the hills.  Summer in all its gloriousness accompanied me on my return through Denmark, Germany and the Netherlands.  

At the start, the gentle landscape and picturesque villages of East Anglia in England gradually gave way to huge rivers and wide open fields in Lincolnshire. EV12 crosses the massive Humber Bridge, over 2km long that claims to be the longest cycle suspension bridge in the World.  

Suffolk Idyl

Yorkshire, Durham and Northumberland are counties of strongly contrasting landscapes.  EV12 passes through the densely populated urban and industrial areas of Teesside and the Tyne.  Much of the landscape between is sparsely populated with rugged hills and moors to the west and an agricultural coastal plain.  Ancient castles appear which were built to defend against Scottish and Scandinavian invaders.  Time should be given over to explore some of the fishing villages from here to Shetland to learn about a fascinating history of herring fishing and sampling sea food meals.

 

Northumberland Beach

Experiencing Scotland is to find a country of epic natural landscapes, engaging cities and a rich cultural heritage. It feels like an adventure the moment the border is crossed north of Berwick.  I enjoyed discovering Scotland's ancient and modern ports where fishing, oil terminals and wind energy are the lifeline of the local economy.  My younger daughter joined me at Aberdeen to Dingwall.

My younger daughter accompanies me on route to the Moray Firth

Moray Coast

It's 1,230 miles from Harwich to John O Groats following EV12.  For cycle challenges, that's 200 miles longer than Lejog but less than a third of the way around the coast of the North Sea. 

John O' Groats

My older daughter joined me at Thurso to cycle around Orkney and Shetland Isles. We catch the evening passenger ferry from John O' Groats to Burwick, then circumnavigate both Orkney and Shetland mainland islands. We cross the Churchill Barriers to Kirkwall and the following day experience the island's prehistoric heritage and numerous lochs.  We arrive in Shetland in thick fog which gives way to strong winds and beautiful views of remote hills, open moorland, tiny lochs with the sea never far away.

Shetland

An unusual feature of EV12 in Shetland is to cycle across the runway of Sumburgh Airport to reach the terminal building.  There were no ferries to Bergen in Norway, so I swallowed my pride for a plane ride.

Bergen is in the heart of the fjords where I was joined by a friend from Finland,  Houses cling to the hillside with majestic views.  We found time to explore its wharf, then set off for Stavanger, 155 miles away and were joined by a Norwegian who used his bike for work.   

Stavanger, Norway

From the outset, I found Norway to be cycle friendly with many cycle lanes and motorists being courteous.  

Cycle Route Was Well Signed

 

Head of Fjord

When I crossed the border into Sweden, I learned how tough some Scandinavian people are.  The weather was cool and drizzle.  I stopped for a snack overlooking a fjord when a Swedish lady cycled up to me, introduced herself, then went for a swim.  The water looked freezing but she said she went swimming every day.  I cycled on through Gothenburg to Varberg for the ferry to Denmark.  

Denmark was very enjoyable with friendly people.  EV12 encompasses Jutland with its beautiful coastline and skies that make artists shriek with joy.  I had a rest day in Skagen with Grenen on its northern tip where two seas collide.  I stood in the sea looking north with my right foot in the Baltic Sea and left foot in the North Sea,

Grenen, Denmark, looking north

Skagen

Unusual camping pod, Skagen

It was well marked easy trails on my journey with fine weather, albeit windy at times.  Heading south from Skagen, at various times, I cycled along sand dunes, forest trails, over open moorland and alongside extensive wetlands that are of international importance both for breeding birds and migratory birds.  

More people speak English in Germany than I expected.  I continued to be dazzled by nature as I cycled alongside the Wadden Sea.  My first encounter was with two German cyclists who stopped me to ask directions.  I had a brilliant guide book from Bikeline, so was able to help.  My favourite experience (among many) was the hospitality of a German family who took me in when I could not find any accommodation at the end of a long day.  An unusual experience was to cycle alongside a huge cargo ship steaming upstream on the River Elbe to Hamburg.  We matched each other for speed until the road turned sharp left and the cargo ship reached Hamburg first. After Hamburg, EV12 passes this impressive transporter bridge.

Osten -Hemmor Transporter Bridge

Holland was the last country of my cycle challenge.  Everyone was so friendly.  There continue to be lots of dykes to cycle on as well as viewing countryside and villages.  We cross the Zirder Zee, 20 miles of road out to sea.  My journey finished at Hook of Holland, but EV12 continues into France.

Everyone cycles in Holland.

Approaching Journey's End

For more information, including route, places to visit, etc, please check Eurovelo website for EV12.  Enjoy.

EUROVELO 1: LIFE IN THE SADDLE ON THE ATLANTIC COAST BY BIKE

Long sandy beaches, forest trails and bustling towns in the south of France gave way to countryside lively with wildlife, pleasant rolling hills, artichoke fields and always plenty of restaurants with great food as my friend and I cycled north. 

Soulac Sur Mer

In 2008 I had completed lejog (Lands End to John O' Groats) and was working out what my next long distance cycle tour would be.  I learned about the ECF (European Cycling Federation) whose proposals were for a long distance cycle route from Spain to Norway.  To be known as EV1, it was not yet mapped, so I decided what better way than to work out my own route.  I realized that I might have done part of it already on lejog.  I thought that this should be undertaken in sections over 2 week periods.  My daily average on tours was always 80 km, a distance I was comfortable with on my fully loaded and trusty Trek cyclocross bike, adapted for touring. 

Cycle path on route to La Rochelle

Today, the ECF has established 19 Eurovelo long distance cycle routes across the breadth of Europe with much either built or in progress.  EV1 is 11,150 km long.

In June 2011, it felt like the start of an adventure when I loaded my panniers, headed for Plymouth's ferry port and set sail for Santander in Spain.  I joined what would become EV1 at San Sebastian in Spain which could not be a better place.  Nestling around a picturesque harbour set amidst a fine old town, it was a cycle friendly city in Basque country and felt vibrant.  

Leaving San Sebastian, I could see the Pyrenees Mountains behind me to the south and cycled north alongside a rugged coastline.  Once over the French border, I hoped to sample the French rural way of life, see the coast, experience wildlife, eat local food and enjoy the wine.  

This was to be the most southerly part of my European journeys that took me to Bergen in Norway via EV1 and to cycle the entire EV12, thus visiting 11 countries on the way.  

I have often been asked what are my favourite parts, and find that the answer is nearly impossible.  It could be Co Mayo in Ireland where I tried to learn to speak Irish and has an outstanding coastline with dramatic hinterland, or wildness in Mull in Scotland where on two totally wild rides I found sea eagles and listened to the roar of stags seeking mates.  I discovered the infamous Scottish midges with the first ride but the day was glorious sunshine and I outran the midges.  The second was in a hail storm. Experiencing the Atlantic coast comes with weather.  The best weather has to be in France, but be prepared for everything once you arrive in the British Isles.  On Sheepshead in Ireland, a ferocious gale was such that I could only manage 4mph going downhill.  Further on in Kerry, the sun shone gloriously.  

I have learned a lot about myself when cycling.  It's a great omen for planning any bike tour.  It starts that my body is capable of much more than I ever thought possible.  The mind relaxes to enjoy the fresh open air and concentrate what's around you.  The world of work disappears.  

Wildlife is less afraid when on a bike.  I can feel and sense the countryside around me.

I have never enjoyed cycling on busy main roads, so pick times of the year when roads are quieter and accommodation is easier to find.  I follow side roads and cycle trails wherever possible.  April, May, June, September and October are my favourite months.  Having given a glimpse of France, this is travelling north.  

The English section is between Plymouth and Bristol.  We cross remote Dartmoor and Exmoor, then discover the Somerset Levels, wetlands that are a haven for wildlife. Time should be taken to explore both Plymouth and Bristol, two of England's great maritime cities, with stories of Sir Francis Drake and Isambard Kingdom Brunel.  

. 

Drakes Trail, Plymouth

When cycling through Wales, the route follows the coast to Pembroke Dock and Fishguard for ferries to Ireland.  I wanted to experience the Brecon Beacons, so left EV1 at Chepstow and followed the valley of the River Usk to beyond Brecon.  I re-joined EV1 at Carmarthen and enjoyed the scenery taking the Irish Ferry from Pembroke.  

The size of this tree in the Brecon Beacons Impressed Me

Tenby

I have been to Ireland many times and have found myself charmed on every visit.  EV1 starts at Rosslaire Harbour and finishes at Belfast, though I went to Larne.  There is so much to enjoy that I don't know where to start.  The five fingers of the south west are dramatic and beautiful.  There is plenty of wonderful hospitality too.  To maximise enjoyment, I recommend cycling around the whole coastline of the Five Fingers, Mizen, Sheepshead, Beara, Kerry and Dingle.  Everywhere beforehand and afterwards enchanted me.

There is no need to hurry in Ireland

Rush hour in Co Mayo

I have cycled in Scotland many times too.  It has dramatic scenery to drink in.  My ferry arrived in Troon for a short hop to Ardrossan where another ferry took me to the Isle of Arran.  It was 60 miles to cycle the coastline of Arran and definitely worth it.  Another ferry took me to the Kintyre Peninsula for the road north to Fort William.  It's best to avoid the main road as it's too narrow for cyclists and carries lots of cars.  There is a much more enjoyable and scenic route keeping to National Cycle Route 78, then carry on to up the Great Glen to Inverness.

Arran is Scotland in Miniature

On Route between Inverness and Aberdeen

The final section follows the Moray coast, then inland to Aberdeen.  I spent much time enjoying the ancient fishing harbours along the coast and discovered a local delicacy of Cullen Skink, a comforting soup made with haddock, potatoes, milk, onion, parsley and crusty roll.  Historically, the fisherman would have used herring.  

My journey finished in Bergen in Norway where I joined another long distance route EV12 to head south.  This was my introduction to Norway

Bergen

I hope that I have given a taste of the Atlantic coast by bike. To find out more, please visit this link for EV1. There are an increasing number of tour operators for guided rides or self guiding adds to the challenge but is fun.

The Moray Coast