EUROVELO 1: LIFE IN THE SADDLE ON THE ATLANTIC COAST BY BIKE

Long sandy beaches, forest trails and bustling towns in the south of France gave way to countryside lively with wildlife, pleasant rolling hills, artichoke fields and always plenty of restaurants with great food as my friend and I cycled north. 

Soulac Sur Mer

In 2008 I had completed lejog (Lands End to John O' Groats) and was working out what my next long distance cycle tour would be.  I learned about the ECF (European Cycling Federation) whose proposals were for a long distance cycle route from Spain to Norway.  To be known as EV1, it was not yet mapped, so I decided what better way than to work out my own route.  I realized that I might have done part of it already on lejog.  I thought that this should be undertaken in sections over 2 week periods.  My daily average on tours was always 80 km, a distance I was comfortable with on my fully loaded and trusty Trek cyclocross bike, adapted for touring. 

Cycle path on route to La Rochelle

Today, the ECF has established 19 Eurovelo long distance cycle routes across the breadth of Europe with much either built or in progress.  EV1 is 11,150 km long.

In June 2011, it felt like the start of an adventure when I loaded my panniers, headed for Plymouth's ferry port and set sail for Santander in Spain.  I joined what would become EV1 at San Sebastian in Spain which could not be a better place.  Nestling around a picturesque harbour set amidst a fine old town, it was a cycle friendly city in Basque country and felt vibrant.  

Leaving San Sebastian, I could see the Pyrenees Mountains behind me to the south and cycled north alongside a rugged coastline.  Once over the French border, I hoped to sample the French rural way of life, see the coast, experience wildlife, eat local food and enjoy the wine.  

This was to be the most southerly part of my European journeys that took me to Bergen in Norway via EV1 and to cycle the entire EV12, thus visiting 11 countries on the way.  

I have often been asked what are my favourite parts, and find that the answer is nearly impossible.  It could be Co Mayo in Ireland where I tried to learn to speak Irish and has an outstanding coastline with dramatic hinterland, or wildness in Mull in Scotland where on two totally wild rides I found sea eagles and listened to the roar of stags seeking mates.  I discovered the infamous Scottish midges with the first ride but the day was glorious sunshine and I outran the midges.  The second was in a hail storm. Experiencing the Atlantic coast comes with weather.  The best weather has to be in France, but be prepared for everything once you arrive in the British Isles.  On Sheepshead in Ireland, a ferocious gale was such that I could only manage 4mph going downhill.  Further on in Kerry, the sun shone gloriously.  

I have learned a lot about myself when cycling.  It's a great omen for planning any bike tour.  It starts that my body is capable of much more than I ever thought possible.  The mind relaxes to enjoy the fresh open air and concentrate what's around you.  The world of work disappears.  

Wildlife is less afraid when on a bike.  I can feel and sense the countryside around me.

I have never enjoyed cycling on busy main roads, so pick times of the year when roads are quieter and accommodation is easier to find.  I follow side roads and cycle trails wherever possible.  April, May, June, September and October are my favourite months.  Having given a glimpse of France, this is travelling north.  

The English section is between Plymouth and Bristol.  We cross remote Dartmoor and Exmoor, then discover the Somerset Levels, wetlands that are a haven for wildlife. Time should be taken to explore both Plymouth and Bristol, two of England's great maritime cities, with stories of Sir Francis Drake and Isambard Kingdom Brunel.  

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Drakes Trail, Plymouth

When cycling through Wales, the route follows the coast to Pembroke Dock and Fishguard for ferries to Ireland.  I wanted to experience the Brecon Beacons, so left EV1 at Chepstow and followed the valley of the River Usk to beyond Brecon.  I re-joined EV1 at Carmarthen and enjoyed the scenery taking the Irish Ferry from Pembroke.  

The size of this tree in the Brecon Beacons Impressed Me

Tenby

I have been to Ireland many times and have found myself charmed on every visit.  EV1 starts at Rosslaire Harbour and finishes at Belfast, though I went to Larne.  There is so much to enjoy that I don't know where to start.  The five fingers of the south west are dramatic and beautiful.  There is plenty of wonderful hospitality too.  To maximise enjoyment, I recommend cycling around the whole coastline of the Five Fingers, Mizen, Sheepshead, Beara, Kerry and Dingle.  Everywhere beforehand and afterwards enchanted me.

There is no need to hurry in Ireland

Rush hour in Co Mayo

I have cycled in Scotland many times too.  It has dramatic scenery to drink in.  My ferry arrived in Troon for a short hop to Ardrossan where another ferry took me to the Isle of Arran.  It was 60 miles to cycle the coastline of Arran and definitely worth it.  Another ferry took me to the Kintyre Peninsula for the road north to Fort William.  It's best to avoid the main road as it's too narrow for cyclists and carries lots of cars.  There is a much more enjoyable and scenic route keeping to National Cycle Route 78, then carry on to up the Great Glen to Inverness.

Arran is Scotland in Miniature

On Route between Inverness and Aberdeen

The final section follows the Moray coast, then inland to Aberdeen.  I spent much time enjoying the ancient fishing harbours along the coast and discovered a local delicacy of Cullen Skink, a comforting soup made with haddock, potatoes, milk, onion, parsley and crusty roll.  Historically, the fisherman would have used herring.  

My journey finished in Bergen in Norway where I joined another long distance route EV12 to head south.  This was my introduction to Norway

Bergen

I hope that I have given a taste of the Atlantic coast by bike. To find out more, please visit this link for EV1. There are an increasing number of tour operators for guided rides or self guiding adds to the challenge but is fun.

The Moray Coast