THE DONEGAL CYCLE ROUTE

I have just completed five days cycle touring in Donegal. Living in the UK there are a handful of cycle challenges that people seem attracted to. Many of these involve challenging yourself into how many miles that you can do in a day over a long distance. In Ireland, the big challenge is Malin to Mizen which is 427 miles and sometimes known as Top to Toe. Malin Head is in Donegal and is Ireland's most northerly point

What attracts me to cycling in Ireland is its unhurried nature and lure of outstanding scenery. The people are warm and motorists frequently give friendly waves. The very name given to Ireland's iconic "Wild Atlantic Way" asks the question what is wild? Is it the weather, a rugged coastline, the scenery or some other wildness? Here therefore is the challenge as it is to find out the wildness and what more dramatic way than to do it by bike?

Donegal offers choices for cycle touring. There is the Wild Atlantic Way, a route for motorists and Eurovelo 1, a route for cycle tourists. The WAW as it is known is well signed and visits all of Donegal's special coastal places. EV1 is also well signed and takes cyclists away from main roads, except in a few unavoidable places.

I found that Donegal provides lots of those wonderful remote wild places that I enjoy seeing but also the journey needs to be planned carefully because some roads in the south of the county are busy with traffic and I thought that the wildness is gradually being diminished. My favourite part was Fanad, the remote north. It has magnificent wildness both in its coastline and fine rugged inland scenery. It has many beaches ideal for wild swimming and unspoilt landscapes so much liked by wildlife. I heard only my second ever corncrake in Dunfanaghy The first was on Mull several years ago and both were real privilege. I thought that EV1 is a good route and there is plenty of dramatic scenery but it does not go through the far north. I felt that my tour needed a mixture of EV1 and the WAW to gain the most benefit. My photos show scenes found on EV1

My daily distances varied from 32 to 52 miles per day and daily elevational gain was roughly 2,500ft. More photos and daily routes can be seen here

A SUMMER CYCLE TOUR IN MAYO, IRELAND

Sometimes a photo asks a question. In this case, where in the World is this?

It could be the Med or the Bahamas or Broome on Australia's north coast, all exotic places and a long way from home. This is Elly Bay on the Atlantic coast of Erris Island in Co Mayo, Ireland. It is still a long way from Devon but you don't need a plane to get there. Erris Island was named as the best place to go wild by the Irish Times in 2014


Mayo thinks of itself as the adventure capital of Ireland. It sits on the north west coast looking out into the Atlantic and this is where I visited next with my bike tour around Ireland's coast. It is an understatement to say that the coastline is enormous. It weaves in and out like the tentacles of a giant drunken octopus. Islands are everywhere you look. Some are connected with bridges, others require a ferry and with some you need your own boat to get to there. Inland there are vast areas of bog and ranges of hills spring up randomly. I would like to say that the coastal strip is flat and mostly it is but now and again there are big hills to be climbed. My passion is cycle touring but here is photo of others enjoying the great outdoors

I enjoyed earlier seeing Galway Hookers, the traditional fishing boats in Galway Bay. In Mayo, they still use currachs, albeit today their skins are fibreglass and here are two in the foreground tied up ready for use

Coming up the coast from Connemara' national park, a fjiord and Mweelrea Mountain, 819m high, block the way into Mayo so a detour inland is required. On route to Westport, another mountain, Croagh Patrick comes into view. Nicknamed the Reek, it is 764m high and a pilgrimage for many Irish people. It is a long bike ride around Clew Bay and I enjoyed a day off in Westport. Achill was worth the detour with spectacular cliffs and kite surfing

I could have spent three weeks just cycling the entire coastline of Mayo but I only had one week so some places have been left out. It was gorgeous and happily the weather was mostly fine so long as the wind was accepted. I weaved in and out of tiny lanes on route to Bangor and twice took wrong turns. I just had to visit Belmullet and Erris Island and here is a photo of Achill taken from Black Sod, the southern tip of Erris

Sadly I missed a section of the north coast, primarily because I could not find any accommodation but it enabled me to see Mayo's spectacular wilderness centre with a backdrop behind of the Nephin Beg mountains, said to be the loneliest area in Ireland

I am keeping daily photos and maps of my route on https://twitter.com/cycle770 so please keep following

THREE DAYS IN CONNEMARA

Located in the north west of Co Galway, Connemara is an area of desolate natural beauty and incredible scenery. This is the start of my latest cycle ride around the coastline of Ireland. Local tourism say the best way to see Connemara is by car. Actually it's not. The best way by far is to get on a bike, travel slow and feel the fresh air. Looking at the photo below, I would have missed this place in a car but this delightful spot was easily found down a rough track on our bikes and my friend went wild swimming.

Our first experience from the road leaving Galway City was to see large numbers of gannets diving fearlessly into the sea at a near vertical angle to catch their prey. This is one of nature's wonders.

Galway Hookers are a traditional way of preserving the past and we soon discover a pair tied in harbour

Local people say these vessels are in their DNA, their bones, hearts and heads. Historically they were the traditional fishing boats for the area designed to work in the harsh Atlantic weather and today they live on with many restored and others built new with modern facilities

We cycle through Clifden to Leenaun travelling 130 miles and taking three days. The coast is wild with seemingly unpolluted waters while inland we view boglands and rivers winding their way through numerous small lakes. In the distance there are the 12 Pins of Connemara, a range of mountains providing a stunning backdrop. This is an encouraging start. Please also view twitter for my latest tweets.

IRELAND BECKONS

It's time to call out my new Thorn Nomad and start a fresh journey. Shortly I will be in Galway on Ireland's west coast. I plan to cycle along Connemara's coastline into Mayo, then head north into Sligo and on to Donegal. I hope to smell the sea as I cycle and feel the fresh Atlantic air. I want to see currachs, fishing boats unique to the west coast of Ireland and Slieve League in Donegal, almost three times higher than the Cliffs of Moher. I want also to reach Malin Head, Ireland's most northerly point and I hope to learn a few words of Irish Gaelic.

This will be the Nomad's first long journey. Here is a photo. It was taken on the Cobbly Way beside the River Avon in South Devon. It does not look special except it seems to have no gears. There are 14 inside the rear wheel hub made by Rolhoff. The gear changing is on the right handlebar and is really easy. The bike is made by Thorn Cycles of Bridgwater and is built for long distance touring.

 

 



 

Ireland has a magnetic pull for me. Last year I cycled around its south and south west coasts. Previously I cycled from Lands End to John O' Groats via Ireland and another trip was from Devon to Glasgow via Sligo. I don't have a favourite place but have many memorable moments and often they are associated with the weather. Perhaps last year describes it best for while cycling around the Sheeps Head in a gale I found it extremely hard work doing 4mph going downhill in bottom gear.  Three days later I was on the Ring of Kerry in the most glorious sunshine. Apparently the storm reached 100mph during the night. Please check my Twitter as well if you follow my journey

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CYCLE TOURING IN SOUTH DEVON

With its rolling hills, spectacular hedgerows and dramatic coastline, South Devon retains its charm with warmth. For touring, there are many quiet lanes with few motorists so there is time to enjoy the scenery. The route below is 50 miles and takes in the southern tip of Dartmoor down to the coast and back. It is 5,300ft climbing with frequent short hills, some of which are quite steep

My start was Ivybridge and I followed back lanes to South Brent and on to Diptford.  The Cobbly Way is worth a little detour at Avonwick because of its historic cobble track beside the River Avon. For a short while, the route follows the line of the old Primrose Railway which many local people want to see reopened as a cycle trail. I leave it at Diptford but see it again on the return journey at Gara Bridge.

Cobbly Way

 In April and May, the hedgerows are alive with wild flowers with primroses, bluebells, wild garlic and wild campion among others. At Slapton, the sea comes into view and there is a great panorama looking back from where I have come using NCN28 about 400m west of Torcross



Slapton Ley

There are several places for refreshments. The onward route via East Prawle takes in some picturesque tidal creeks. I now head north through Sherford, Gara Bridge, California Cross, Brownston and Sheepham. I found it of interest seeing two of the old railway stations on the Primrose Line, now converted into houses. These, along with quaint hamlets, old pubs, historic farms and much more would not be seen without trying these byelanes

Frogmore Creek


FOUR TOP PLACES IN THE UK FOR TOURING CYCLISTS

I HAVE TOURED ALL OVER THE UK and these are four of my favourite journeys. All are rides that offer great challenges, are mainly on quiet roads and the scenery takes the breath away. They are some of the UK's great outdoors

BEALACH NA BA

I cycled Bealach Na Ba in October 2013. It is a single track road rising 2,053ft from sea level with gradients up to 20%. Set in Wester Ross mountains and overlooking the Isle of Skye, it is one of the most awe inspiring roads in the UK. Beware of the weather however and the top was heavy in cloud on my journey.

Coming a very close second was the Figure of Eight on the Isle of Mull. I have done it twice, once in brilliant sunshine and the other in an October gale. The roads are quiet with jaw dropping views and in October listen out for stags calling

THE HEART OF WALES

Wales has three remote scenic long distance routes that converge on Rhayader and this town with its bike shop that doubles up as a pub in the evening must qualify as a mecca for bike tourers. The bike shop has twice got me out of trouble. Head north to Snowdonia, east into the old county of Radnor, south into the Black Mountains and west into the Cambrian Mountains. Follow National Cycle routes 8, 81 and 825 and you will find everything to satisfy a touring cyclist.  Watch out for red kites souring in the skies above

THE ANTRIM COAST

On a clear day, it is possible to see the Paps of Jura, one of Scotland's fabulous Hebridean islands. My first visit was in 2015 and I will going back again later this year. The route is beautiful, rugged   and hugs the coast. It is 70 miles long. Beware weekends and holidays when the road can be quite busy.
Watch out for impressive colonies of sea birds.

DARTMOOR

Dartmoor is home territory for me. Two iconic cycle routes can be found using the Dartmoor Way Website The area is known for its high moors with granite peaks known as torrs while the perimeter is a land of secret valleys with rivers rushing off the moors, ancient woodlands and wildflower meadows.  They are very beautiful when the sun shines but dark and menacing in the mist and when it rains.  Listen for cuckoos in the spring.

Another favourite is to cross the Pennines by bike and I hope to do a new route later this year The Lakes and Dales Cycle Route

DRAMA ON THE DARTMOOR WAY

Here is a short story with Christmas cheer.  Our local Sustrans South Devon Group held our annual Dark Skies Ride and Christmas Dinner last Wednesday at the Cornwood Inn.  It was a welcome treat from Sustrans that I was able to present Michael Owen with a Certificate of Appreciation for his volunteering work.  Michael looks after 95 miles of the Dartmoor Way Cycle Route more of less single handedly and then finds time on our guided rides.  Somehow he always seems to manage it with a smile. 

 

 

 It was very appropriate therefore that our ride was on the Dartmoor Way.  We met at the Watermark Centre in Ivybridge at 6.30pm and there was a massive hailstorm.  Colin thought that we should wait a bit before we set off and Andy, wearing shorts agreed.  Kate, meanwhile, looked ready to go while her partner, George, seemed to prefer Colin’s idea.  Michael, who was unable to cycle because of an eye problem, was being driven there with his wife, Debbie, and met a violent hailstorm.  Fortune, however, favours the brave and we never saw any more rain or hail.  We set off for a 5 mile trip via Harford to Cornwood and this was a true Dark Skies ride.  There were no street lights, few cars and only the occasional farm or house.  We heard owls hooting, listened to the rivers crashing down from Dartmoor after the deluge and the night sky opened up for us to see whispery clouds and distant moors lit up by the moon.  It was amazing.   

The Cornwood Inn served us a treat.  Colin was able to have his favourite beer, Doom Bar, and mine was there too, Tribute.  There was a big selection of meals so some had traditional turkey while there was plenty of choice for the others.  The landlady gave us free mulled wine at the start and coffees at the end.  She regaled us with stories about Black Eye Friday held annually just before Xmas.  Apparently this involves a good scuffle in the bar but everyone meets up on the next morning as best of friends. Colin came up with ten different recipes for Gaelic Coffee while Andy and Michael swapped stories of motor bike adventures from old.  George and Colin were very interested to hear that our new neighbour makes clinker boats.  Kate and I extolled the virtues of local wildlife.   

The weather held for the ride back and we all managed the steep hill leading to Harford Church.  We arrived back in Ivybridge just after 11pm and there is talk of having a summer social ride.

 

Merry Christmas