2020 THE JOURNEYS THAT NEVER HAPPENED

 Given that we are still in lockdown, I thought that I would share how 2020 was supposed to have happened. I had planned one long tour, two short ones and had thoughts for a third. With my role at Sustrans I had arranged the first guided ride of the season in South Devon and this was fully booked with 30 people. 

My main tour was to be in May when I had arranged to meet my friend, Dagmar from Southern Germany with her partner to celebrate the tenth anniversary from when we met while cycling the North Sea Cycle Route. 

7 July 2010. At Harwich having just finished the NCSR while Dagmar is part way through hers

The first to be postponed was a mini tour of the Somerset Levels at the end of March with a group of Sustrans volunteers from Somerset who were to host our South Devon group. Another was my long planned tour to discover the Lakes and Dales Cycle Route in NW England. I had also imagined the possibility of a short tour in Northern Island 

Like everybody else, my plans fell into disarray because of Covid. Our groups were looking forward to the Somerset Levels. We had met for the first time in 2019 and cycled the Dartmoor Way.  We enjoyed it so much that we organized this ride and were considering another later in the year.

Dagmar with her partner had planned to cycle the Tour de Manche, a 750 mile journey that comes through Plymouth and invited me along.  It is a circular route that goes through Normandy, Brittany, Devon and Dorset.  We first met in Wilhelmshaven on our fully loaded touring bikes in 2010 and cycled together for a week. We have met several times since and our tours have always been adventures. We have toured the Alps, Pyrenees, a long distance tour in the British Isles and other shorter ones.

The Lakes and Dales Loop feels that it should be a spectacular 200 miles tour in Cumbria and the Yorkshire Dales. It looks awesome and is drawing me in like a bee to nectar.  

Accident in Yorkshire 2012

Fellow Cyclist in Ireland 2015

Well, we are still in lockdown. Let's hope for better things to come

FORWARD INTO 2021

These are my vital bike statistics for 2020.  I did 141 journeys, travelled 2,429 miles and my elevational gain was 229,915ft (70,075 metres).  Because of Covid I never left Devon.  In normal years I cycle 3,500 miles or more because I go bike touring.

As 2021 sets off to a bumpy start, there is more social distancing, constant washing of hands and wearing face masks that makes us all look that we are about to rob banks.  Never have I been so clean!

However I live in hope for 2021. Vaccines are coming and there is a growing popular clamour to deal with climate change.  Bike holidays are more fun and sociable than sitting in a car. I look forward to my bike tours again.  My last plane journey was in 2010 and I do not miss them. The great outdoors is calling and this is where fun starts.

 

MY FIVE FAVOURITE PLACES WHERE I HAVE CYCLED

With forced lockdown from Covid, this year has been very different. My travelling has been on the little lanes around South Devon where I live. My bikes have been busy and the car little used as I have enjoyed the great outdoors in the saddle.  With fewer cars, I have been more conscious of nature.  I have seen baby weasels in the road, numerous birds and I have enjoyed the wild flowers in the hedgerows. I took up cycle touring as a late experience when I discovered that slow travel can be truly one of life's great experiences. 

ADVENTURE CYCLE TOURING: POST COVID-19

Have you ever thought to go on holiday with your bike?  If you like to soak up the sun on a beach or go on a cruise, it’s probably not for you.  But post COVID-19, whenever that comes, it may be one of the best ways to help put lockdown behind you.  If you want to visit open countryside, the coast or climb some mountains, why not consider packing all your stuff into two small bags and go off on a bike?  As you breath in the fresh air, you can get a suntan too.

If you think about the car, you will miss so much.  It’s also very expensive and think about all those exhaust emissions launching into the atmosphere.  A bike is easy.  You leave all the non-essentials at home and you travel light so packing is simple.   

Bike touring must be one of the best ways to engage with nature and people. 

 

The Wye Valley in Powys 2017

I usually go on my own as I can set my own speed and stop to visit places or make detours, but I do enjoy the company of friends so long as we have easy friendly days.  One of my friends never sets a distance so he is never late and I like that.   

What makes a tour?  A tour can be anything you want and we are spoilt for choice living in the South West.  It can be a two or three day tour such as on the Dartmoor Way, an adventure in itself.  It can also be a main holiday or, if time permits, a long distance expedition off the beaten track at some suitable stage in your life.  It is the ultimate fresh air experience and you will find many people interested in you and what you do.  It’s for families too and pre COVID-19 my older daughter with partner and child now age 4 set the example with holidays bike packing in France and Isle of Wight 

Preparations for any tour include getting fit, having the right bike and the right choice of clothes.  Don’t rely on the gym for getting fit and make sure you have a sturdy bike with puncture proof tyres.  It helps to have a positive mental attitude and not overdo any days by becoming too tired.  

So turn your bike into a travelling machine capable of taking you on a trip of a lifetime.

 

 

THE PRIMROSE TRAIL

Devon's River Avon tumbles off Dartmoor and meanders through South Hams until it reaches the sea at Bigbury Bay. The landscape has barely reached the 21st century and it is easy to imagine a land that time has almost forgotten.  In the early 20th century a railway ran alongside the river starting at GWR's main line in South Brent and terminating in Kingsbridge. Because of its scenic beauty, especially in spring, it was named the Primrose Line.

Today a hardy band of enthusiasts wants to open up the old railway for walking, cycling and horse riding and have launched a campaign. In my role as a Sustrans ride manager, I organised a guided bike ride to check out the area, see the river, pass by the old station buildings and experience the wild places. In the blink of an eye, the ride was fully booked and more people wanted to join. Then came COV-19 and it was cancelled. So, here is a brief story and the route if you want to cycle it solo.

It is a return journey of 35 miles with climbs at 3,450ft if, like our Sustrans group, you start in Ivybridge and follow the Dartmoor Way to South Brent. Our first views of the Avon are when we cross an old stone bridge and see the river tumbling over rocks. 

River Avon north of South Brent

We stop at the old railway junction where glimpse of the line can still be seen.  Soon after, we meet the Cobbly Way, an ancient track beside the river. We now cycle alongside the river and pass the former train station for Avonwick, now a house, then climb into Diptford.  The road moves away from the river and we look over the valley to our right. On our recce ride ride last Saturday, the hedgerows were alive with primroses, wild daffodils, periwinkle and even some snowdrops. 

The Cobbly Way, Avonwick

We skirt around Moreleigh passing close to its beautiful church and on to Woodleigh where we drop down to rejoin the Avon after passing Loddiswell's former station which is nicely converted into a house but very recognisable in GWR painted livery.  We reach Avon Mill Café where you can buy refreshments and sit on the bank overlooking the river.  Up to now all the roads are quiet country lanes and, as there is no quiet lane into Kingsbridge, our ride finishes here.

If you want to find more about the proposed trail, please check here. The story of the railway is as this link

A CYCLE TOUR ON DARTMOOR

Of all the images that capture the spirit of Dartmoor, I like this photo because it radiates happiness. I enjoy the verdant trees and the glimpse of open moorland behind.

 

 

Dartmoor Way between Bovey Tracey and Tottiford Reservoir

Dartmoor's air is clean and fresh. Birdsong is a welcome distraction. While many associate the landscape with granite tors and wide open moorland, the fringes are a naturalist's paradise and much less visited. The area has much to offer.

The car is not my first choice of transport. This is probably irrational but car journeys are often tedious. My preferred travel choices are bikes for short journeys and trains for longer ones. Dartmoor is not so big that you cannot go there by bike and it is readily accessible from many urban areas.

Imagine my delight last month when I was invited to join a group of 8 to tour the moor over three days on our bikes.  All were regular cyclists but only two, including myself were experienced tourers.  Touring is a different mindset to road and mountain biking.  For a start, bikes are heavier and we go slower to be able to see everything. Coffee breaks and cameras are essential and we go at the speed of the slowest rider.

Every journey on Dartmoor includes seeing ancient woodlands, crossing rivers tumbling off its slopes, cycling up many hills and living in a wild landscape.  The light changes throughout the day and with the seasons. Autumn is a great time as the colours are beautiful. The weather sometimes adds to the wildness so experiencing a hailstorm and enjoying sunshine on the same day is not uncommon

Rain proofs on and waiting for a hail storm to clear

We are all volunteers with two groups from Sustrans. We take out occasional guided rides from Bridgwater and in South Devon. Our philosophy is that cycling should be for everyone so we try to find beautiful journeys and don't set fast speeds.

Both photos below tell stories. I enjoyed the mini challenge on the track between Mary Tavy and Peter Tavy including the river bridge. On another occasion I must climb the summit to take in the views from Brentor Church

Bridge over River Tavy

Brentor Church

At the end of this journey, I was strangely exhausted but not in a way that deterred me as next March our groups have made plans for a three day tour in Somerset. Meanwhile our South Devon group are planning a Primrose Ride for April where we would like others to join us

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY BY BIKE

"The Journey of a Lifetime awaits along 2,500km of Coastal Road" says the website for the Wild Atlantic Way and, as I was looking for a new bike tour that would inspire me, I had to take a look. This is not France, Portugal or Spain. It is Ireland's windswept west coast and the next landmass is the USA nearly 6,650km away. I felt inspired and in 2017, I decided that this would be my next challenge.



Connemara where my friend went wild swimming



In April 2018, I started at Rosslare in Co Wexford for the beginning of my route that would take me along Ireland's south coast to Kinsale, where I would meet the Wild Atlantic Way. I soon discovered that the coast weaves beautifully in and out and it set the scene for my journey of over 2,400km.

Rosslare is a good place to start a bike ride in Ireland. There are ferries from both Pembroke and Fishguard. I travelled with Irish Ferries as the cycle connection at Pembroke is easy using Sustrans cycle route NCN4 and avoids all the traffic. Both Fishguard and Pembroke have train connections to Cardiff and beyond.

Rosslare too is excellent for cyclists and has a very straightforward connection onto Eurovelo cycle route EV1. It is also a pleasant place to start a tour with lots of B+B's and a good Irish pub for dinner.

The Irish Government plans that Eurovelo 1 will be a long distance cycle route through the south, west and north of Ireland. Some sections are in place and I found that the first part through Co Wexford is well signed and easy to follow. Eurovelo 1 contributed to my inspiration as it is the cyclists' equivalent to the Wild Atlantic Way. On my first day, I reached Hook Lighthouse and Co Waterford was a short ferry ride away on the following morning. This was where my first decision was needed. Should I travel on the new Waterford Greenway or the Copper Coast route, much more hilly but very beautiful? I chose the Copper Coast Route and was delighted with my choice. I was now to experience Ireland's great hospitality and wild weather at the same time. Having seen great coastal views and a redundant copper mine, I arrived at my B+B at Stradbally completely soaked but was given a warm welcome and, after a shower, driven a distance of 10km for dinner in Dungarvan.

I discovered that Cork is a fascinating city but suggest avoiding it on the bike as it is very busy with no suitable bike infrastructure. It is far better to cycle into Cobh instead. You should have a day off, stay two nights in Cobh and go in to Cork by train. There is a ferry leaving Cobh and the next place is Kinsale, a bustling place worthy of a another rest day as there is plenty to do. It is also the start of the Wild Atlantic Way.

You don't meet Eurovelo 1 again until Westport in Co Mayo. I used a Collins road map to plan my journey as it shows both main roads and lots of tiny lanes. The Wild Atlantic Way is well signed on the ground.  It is a mixture of main highways and quiet side roads. I soon discovered that it is important to plan each day carefully, partly to try and keep off busier roads but the Way misses out some very scenic places on the coast.  In April, I found that the main roads outside cities are quiet and many rural Irish motorists are immensely respectful to cyclists. There was many an occasion that I was on a quiet lane and unknowingly I had a motorist waiting patiently behind me to overtake, neither tooting the horn nor revving the engine.

The five peninsulas of Mizen, Sheeps Head, Beara, Kerry and Dingle come next. The distance cycling around the coast is enormous but the scenery and hospitality are outstanding. Famed for their jaw dropping coastlines  and mountains looking down over crystal clear waters, you feel that you are cycling into the unknown. Understanding the perils of the weather is fundamental to having an enjoyable bike ride in Ireland. Do be prepared to hunker down occasionally. I have cycled in many types of weather before but Mizen and Sheeps Head were to test me in a way I have rarely experienced. I left Goleen with gales and heavy rain forecast. I was cycling north east and, with the wind behind me, I reached Durrus in no time. My next stop was Sheeps Head itself but this required to turn due west straight into the wind. It was ferocious and thankfully I found a B+B part way. Imagine cycling downhill at 6kph in bottom gear and finding it hard work? This was the end of Sheeps Head when the wind rose to 160kph later that evening. This was an adventure in itself that extended into the next day.  I had to abandon the far west of Beara because of high winds but serenity returned when I arrived on the Ring of Kerry. The sun shone and out came the sun cream. I expected the main road to be fairly busy and had prepared to ride a side road but there was virtually no traffic so kept to the main road. The weather was now angelic and Kerry was gorgeous. So was the Dingle peninsula that followed and I especially enjoyed Slea Head. This was four days that I savoured.

I thoroughly enjoyed the five peninsulas. After leaving Tralee, the coast was more gentle as I headed up to Tarbert where I crossed the River Shannon. I spent two nights at Kilkee and had an enjoyable day storm watching the waves exploding over a reef and seeing tiny turnstones scrambling to get food from the beach. I stopped on the Burren to admire its limestone pavements and patchwork of tiny fields grazed by cattle

Galway was half way on my tour. My journey had been full of drama but I decided to split it into a second visit and come back the following year.

"How are you?" were the first words I heard on my return trip, this time in June 2019. These easy words are spoken as a greeting by everyone in Ireland and give a reassuring friendly feel. Many people speak Irish on the west coast.

I thought that I was entering dreamtime that only got better and better as I cycled through Connemara and Mayo. Rarely have I enjoyed myself so much. I left the traffic of Galway city and cycled into a soft Irish mist as I followed the coast road. I watched gannets diving into the sea and the sun came out to serenade me for many of the days that followed. This is an area of contrasts. Little sandy bays sit within a craggy coastline and behind there is another inland watery landscape with little lochans and bogs everywhere. The backdrop is mountainous. I found the most interesting town is Westport which I have visited often. If you are lucky, you can see Riverdance being performed in its little theatre. On route, Leenane is at the head of a fjiord. It is a good place to stay and you have to pass through here when leaving Connemara into Mayo. It is not possible to follow the coast because there is both the fjiord and a mountain in the way.

Mayo's coastline is huge. After cycling around Clew Bay, Achill's coast must be seen and it is two days ride to reach Blacksod, just a few km north by boat. Mayo has possibly the least populated wilderness area in Ireland and lays claim to be its adventure capital for outdoor sports. I detected an aura of regional pride in Mayo

Sligo was busy and I could not find anywhere to stay so I did not see much of it. The traffic was very heavy too but I knew about the North West Trail Cycle Route from a previous ride. You should take this to Donegal. It is a good route around the edge of the Dartry Mountains then rejoins the coast to Donegal town. Eurovelo 1 starts again in Co Donegal and takes you to Belfast. For a while both cycle routes are on the same lanes. I followed much of EV1  in Co Donegal and except at Loughanure, it was well signed. but it misses some of the north. Donegal's west coast was more built up than I expected but the north and east were well worth the journey. I heard a corncrake at Dunfanaghy, a bird of exceptional rarity.

I rejoined EV1 and followed it across the border into Northern Ireland all the way to Portadown where I left it for my journey's end at Newry. EV1 leaves the Wild Atlantic Way midway between Letterkenny and Derry (where I had been on a previous ride). Expecting the unexpected, I had no idea what Northern Ireland would be like. EV1 had been chosen to take you through the Sperrins, a remote inland mountainous area and I found myself again feeling as if I was cycling into the unknown. It is an AONB and many cycle routes are signed to criss cross it. My favourite town was Cookstown on its SE edge. The route touches Lough Neagh and my final section was along a former canal path into Newry.

I entered Ireland on my second visit through Dublin Port. I want to come back to Dublin for another visit but not with a bike. Like many cities, its infrastructure needs substantial improvement and before I came I was told to be ultra careful. It is 5km from the port into the city centre much of it shared with HGV's and there is no choice with this. However both trains and some long distances coaches take bicycles. My outward trip from Dublin to Galway was with GoBus who gave a good service and the return from Newry was equally good on the train.

Would I go back to Ireland again with my bike? Of course. What was my favourite place? I am not telling. Any dramas with weather? A few.  Below is the route for Eurovelo 1 which I based my journey on

This is the website for Eurovelo 1. My daily maps and lots of photos can be found on Twitter

Enjoy a great adventure