IMAGES OF CATALONIA, DAYS 6 AND 7

Dagmar and I are now at Ponts on the southern edge of the Pyrenees and still in Catalonia. In the towns, we always find old parts with narrow lanes, a church and a square. There are usually trees that give both shade and beauty. Catalan is widely spoken here. In the evenings children are always out playing and often with their parents. Regularly we see a parent with children on bicycles. It seems very safe.

Yesterday we cycled 56 miles and climbed 970m when the sun was very hot. We decided to stay two nights at Ponts and today had a day tour on the bikes without panniers.
We left La Seu d'Urgell on a main road going south. It was wide, downhill, fast and passed through several gorges.  Much traffic was going in the opposite direction but it was not distracting to look at the scenery.  We stop to look at vultures gliding low over the valley.  When tunnels appeared, we joined the old road which for some obscure reason  was often closed even for cyclists but which we ignored. This is how one gorge appeared

The temperature rose in the afternoon as we left the main road to follow little roads where we saw no cars and only one cyclist. The scenery was no longer mountainous and a huge reservoir was to our left while small fields surrounded by poppies was typical.
This morning we both wanted an easy day.  We set off on unmade farm tracks to discover the local area while in the afternoon we followed a rural route south and enjoyed many cafes. We still cycled 45 miles but it was at a leisurely pace except when a storm appeared and we raced to reach a cafe just in time before it broke

Tomorrow we resume our journey and head north west

COAST TO COAST ALONG THE PYRENEES: DAYS 4 AND 5

We are now in La Seu d'Urgell cycling west from Perpignan to Hendaye. We have cycled 99 miles, climbed 2,800m and summited 5 colls in the last two days. We have been over a mile high and passed the magnificent Pedroforca

This stands at 2,506m high and has two parallel ridges. It is reported  to be one of the emblematic mountains of Catalonia and enjoyed by hikers and rock climbers.  Our highest altitude was at Coll de Josa at 1,620m.

We have found ourselves high in the Pyrenees. The weather is now sunny and our very wet day is almost forgotten.  My bike is purring away much like a cat who has enjoyed a juicy mouse for breakfast.  My legs are gaining strength while Dagmar who trains in the Alps has a fitness that I have not seen on our previous trips.

There have few cars on these roads and, apart from tyre noise, the sounds have been birdsong and cow bells.  In fact, sheep and goats all have bells and there are frequent ting a lings all day.  We come across a shepherd with a very long beard and 3 dogs. We greet by saying "Ola" but I know no Spanish so no conversations follow.  Dagmar can speak a little and I am easily impressed.  These are some scenic views

Dagmar's blog can be seen here and you can follow me on Twitter

CYCLE TOUR IN CATALONIA; FIGUERES TO OLOT

My journey today with Dagmar started to the south of the Pyrenees and wound west to Girona, then turned slightly north into the Pyrenees and finished at Olot. The distance was 61 miles. The morning sun rose to 24C. I knew nothing of these places. My knowledge of Spanish architecture was from trips to Cuba and South America over 10 years ago. Back then, I loved the faded grandeur of their cities built in colonial times but I have never seen them in Spain. Figueres, our start, is worthy of a longer visit and Salvador Dali's museum would be the first place to explore. Last night, we sat in a courtyard of old stone buildings with narrow balconies and deep windows while eating our meal.  Architects strive to create atmosphere and in this courtyard they succeeded 400 years ago. Every town so far has a grand church.  This one is at Girona.

Every town  has squares as their centre points.  Sometimes they are open where people can walk around, sit or talk such as this at Figueres while others have beautiful gardens and water features such as at Olot.  This was at Figueres

There was no cycle route to Girona so we cycled on a main highway. We doubted that this was a great idea and had stopped at its start on a major roundabout. A local highways van pulled up behind us and the driver, understanding our dilemma, got out and explained that the road had a wide shoulder and little traffic. He felt that we should not worry.  The road had a good surface and gentle hills so the miles rolled away fast.  We gazed at the distant Pyrenees to the north getting closer.  Girona came and went and we now followed one of the most scenic paths on an old railway that I have ever seen.  Views started with allotments, then poppy fields and we peddled alongside a clear stream through forests, spotting red roofed villages as we went.

On several occasions, seeds like dandelions floated through the air and landed giving the appearance of snow

We peddled on to the summit of the railway path and dark clouds started to appear. A group of about 70 school children came the other way, a few oblivious of us and we both just avoided several head on crashes. The clouds grew menacing and at the summit the weather changed to thunder and a ferocious rain storm. My suncream poured off my forehead into my eyes which combined with the salt from my perspiration made my eyes sting. I had to keep wiping my eyes on the descent which at the same time had turned from a cycle path into a torrent of water.  We reached Olot an hour later completely soaked, checked into a hotel and was greeted as if it is perfectly normal for guests to arrive like this.  Today was a good adventure

A BIKE RIDE THROUGH SPAIN; MY FIRST DAYS

Travelling is to be enjoyed and not endured. I am now with my cycling friend, Dagmar, from Germany who I meet up each year for a 2 week journey to somewhere new. This year we are on a tour cycling from Perpignan on the Mediterranean Sea to Hendaye on the Atlantic. We always try to find quiet roads away from traffic and don't mind dirt roads. These are easy to find with Dagmar.

We are now in Figueres, a delightful ancient town in Catalonia and birthplace of Salvador Dali, the artist.
I have cycled just 97 miles and the rest was by ferry and train. Here is a quick guide for making an otherwise dull journey from England to Spain both interesting and cheap.
An overnight ferry from Plymouth sailed to Roscoff in Brittany arriving at 09.30. This allowed enough time for a mini cycling tour of Brittany to Morlaix where a TGV train whisked me to Paris on the same evening. A 3 mile bike ride along a segregated bus/bike lane took me from Gare Mont-parnasse to Gare d'Austerlitz where I boarded a night sleeper train to Perpignan. The cost was £110 including the sleeper birth on the train. My arrival found me invigorated and ready to go. When Dagmar joined me 6 hours later, I had made a mini tour of Perpignan.
Having devoured a delicious sandwich each, we made an afternoon trip along some of coastal scenery beside the Med.

It was easy to see why the Med is so popular. The beaches stretch for miles, it is warm and cafes abound.  Our first night was at Collioure, noted for its scenic qualities at the foot of Pyrenees, castles, artists and possibly because 39" of snow fell on 21 January 1870.

Today was our first full day and we made tourist's progress so went very slow stopping to take in the views and climb some hills. Dagmar's blog can be seen here.

These are more images from today

DAYBREAK IN PERPIGNAN

I have just arrived and this is from the train coming into Perpignan at 6am this morning

A LONG TRIP SOUTH

Tonight, I leave for a long trip south as on Monday I will be joining a friend in Perpignan.  We will be on a 2 week tour to cycle along the Pyrenees to Hendaye.  It will be coast to coast from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic. I am not too sure of the route as my friend is planning it.

My journey south starts in Plymouth where I catch the overnight ferry to Roscoff in France.  I have time for a morning's tour in Brittany tomorrow as I am catching a train from Morlaix in late afternoon.  There will be plenty of time for a 30km bike ride alongside the Rade Morlaix (estuary) to the train station.  The overnight train arrives in Perpignan at 6am.

EXPERIENCING IRELAND

I am just returned from Mayo in Ireland. I have been there before and wanted to go again. It has everything for the touring cyclist from amazing scenery, excellent roads and welcoming people.  Like Donegal, Mayo is on Eurovelo 1.  These are some views in Mayo and neighbouring Connemara all on cycle routes.

This is how the routes are signed

I also like that motorists are told to give cyclists space such as with this sign

Mayo's scenery offers splendid isolation but also you are never far from a town or bar for refreshments.  Westport is successfully creating itself into a smart town with cycling encouraged as this image

My plan is to return sometime soon and find more exciting bike rides and stunning scenery