TRAIN JOURNEY TO SOUTHERN GERMANY

I am sitting here in Meckenbeuren beside Lake Konstanz in Southern Germany having successfully crossed Europe by train in 23 hours. I set off taking my bike for what I knew would be a complicated journey. The overnight sleeper train from Plymouth dulled me into semi-stupour but I could not sleep. I arrived in London at 5am, assembled the panniers onto my bike, fixed up the lights and set off to find St Pancras Station. This was a strange experience. I have never seen London quiet before but at 5am there were just a few delivery vehicles and not much more.

I had a companion though. It was Badger who first joined me on my marathon journey around the coastline of the North Sea in 2010. Badgar went around the North Sea twice for he left me to join Dagmar on her journey. Badger went to live in Meckenbeuren with Dagmar until September last year when both visited me in Plymouth. Badger then stayed with me only to go into hibernation until I took him around Dartmoor last week. Badger is to be reunited with Dagmar as we take a two week trip through Switzerland and into France.

Eurostar's rules meant that bike and Badger travel separately from me to Paris and they were booked into a freight terminal. My Eurostar train was eventful only by the snoring from the person behind me and momentary entertainment of a family arguement on the seats opposite. Everything was going well until Paris. I went to collect my bike and Badger only to find that they had arrived early and gone back to London! Aghhh, I cried.  There were long discussions. I was to carry on my journey and my bike would be delivered to Meckenbeuren.  My wife texted to say that Badger had fixed this and it was my fault.  I had kept him too long in hibernation. So not only has Badger gone round the North Sea twice but he now crosses the English Channel three times in a day. I must carry on.

I walk from Paris Nord to Est stations, catch a TGV to Strassbourg, catch another train and another, now in Germany and heading south.

The scenery is very pleasant and it is interesting comparing all the European Trains. I feel like Michael Portillo on his recent BBC TV series on trains. Dagmar comes meet me and my last train arrives after dark in Meckenbeuren.

Meanwhile as I write Badger and my bike have now reached Stuttgart. They are expected here at 5pm this evening

DESTINATION SOUTHERN GERMANY

On Sunday, I set off with my bike by train to the little town of Meckenbeuren.  I am embarking on a 12 day mystery tour to Avignon.  All I know is that I will be cycling through Switzerland, a country I have only ever spent two days in.  Meckenbeuren is located by the beautiful Lake Konstanz and where I meet my buddy, Dagmar who has planned our tour.  All I need now is to embark on 6 trains and a 20 hour journey!

DESTINATION TAVISTOCK BY BIKE

The little lanes across the south west corner of Dartmoor attract lots of cyclists. I wanted to discover some that I had not visited. My first encounter was with two riders on mountain bikes who had just come down an off-road trail from Princetown to the little village of Lutton. Not being on a mountain bike, this needs riding on another occasion.

Starting in Ivybridge I was to discover Drakes Leat, Tavistock Canal, an ancient tramway, an old railway tunnel, several pubs and an Easter market.

Historically, Drakes Leat was built in 16thC to provide Plymouth's water supply from Dartmoor. It still runs in its upper reaches and is in an excellent state of preservation. The Tavistock Canal is also well preserved and links Tavistock with Morwellham Quay on the River Tamar.

I arrived too late in Tavistock to see its Easter market as the stalls were starting to be dismantled. However a flower seller was still busy. An ancient stannary town, Tavistock is always bustling with activity where country people come off the Moor and Tamar Valley to meet townies. 



My journey started in Ivybridge and took me through the quiet village of Cornwood, over the River Plym at Cadover and on to Clearbrook where I met Drakes Trail that comes up from Plymouth. This is now part of a long distance route through France and South West England.  Drakes Leat and the tramway can be found leading north from Clearbrook. Continuing the journey, I stopped for lunch at Yelverton then peddled on and into Tavistock.

The tunnel was quite fun to cycle through as it was tricky seeing cyclists coming the other way due to the low lighting so it took a bit of guesswork to check where they were. To follow what I am up to next, please check out twitter

IVYBRIDGE TO SALCOMBE BY BIKE

It is not an easy ride to Salcombe.  There are hills and there are evils.  Evils are very steep hills.  The cycle route (NCN 28) more than compensates with its deep insite into Devon's South Ham's beautiful countryside and outstanding coastal scenery.

My first encounter was with John.  He loves his bike but loves horses more.  Today John was on route to the hunt alongside other horse riders.  I had just passed the hounds.  John had earlier asked me if I would set the trail for the hounds on my mountain bike.  I foolish said that I might but luckily he has not taken me up on that.

The rural heart of Devon is special.  Bullocks stare as you cycle past lonely farms, buzzards frequently swoop close overhead, people stop to talk, at Aveton Gifford there is a homely community shop and you can stop for a swim at South Milton beach.  The waterside settings and wildlife are all special places and finally the butcher in Salcombe sells superb local pasties.

At Salcombe there is a ferry across the estuary where you can cycle on to Slapton and Totnes.  I turned round and went back the same way. 

You can follow me on twitter to see what is happening

THE CYCLE PATH TO NOWHERE

Despite all the rain that had thrown it down relentlessly for months, I am amazed to see early signs of Spring. The grass is growing, primroses have been flowering for ages and birds are showing early signs of finding mates.

I decided to follow a short cyclepath shown on the OS map that neatly avoids a very busy and dangerous stretch of A379 between Brixton and Plymouth. It comes complete with Millenium Sculpture.

This image shows what should be a well used path about 2.5 miles long. Indeed it started promisingly with a beautiful stretch of wooded former railway track.

However it was not to last. The tarmac ended and it turned to mud but at least it was reasonably level. I arrived at a T junction and met a steep hill.  There was no sign telling me whether to turn left or right. In both directions it was steep and deeply rutted stones not possible to cycle on.

The map said to turn right. When I reached the highway at the end of the path, there were no signs telling me which way to go.

The message for me here is simple. What has gone wrong and what does this tell cyclists about attitudes towards them?

SEASON'S GREETINGS

This is the time of year where I abandon pasties and Yorkie bars in favour of mince pies.  My wife made the most delicious mince pies I have ever tasted this year.  The visitors in our holiday cottage all came back for seconds after she took over a intial batch when they arrived. 

I saw a programme on Channel 4 last night that said pasties make you fat.  They don't!  Proper west country pasties are the best food ever, except for my wife's mince pies. 

I hope that you like our Christmas tree this year.  And the duck?  We found out Bradley Wiggins is to receive his knigthood and Sarah Storey is to become a dame.  We also watched The Holiday and all these helped us to have a happy feel for this Christmas

Have you good Christmas story this year?  For next year, read more on my new website or follow me on twitter

A WEEKEND IN LONDON

How different to my last journey?  I was invited for a weekend in London and  to bring my bike.

London is a completely different experience to cycling anywhere else.  For a start, there are cyclists everywhere.  There are high speed commutors, Boris bikes, easy bikes, couriers and no lots more.  Traffic is vast with buses, taxis, delivery vehicles, bikes and cars all vying for space.

Asked where I would like to go, I ventured cycling along the South Bank to Greenwich.  We peddled off along Bayswater Road past Lancaster Gate and into Hyde Park.  Swimmers had gathered at the Serpentine for their morning dip.  I asked a man with a thermometer what was the temperature.  "One degree" he replied.  My friend who is a member went for a dip.  Ducks, swans and coots looked for friendly humans for food.

Crowds turned out to watch changing of the guard as we passed and then we peddled off down the Strand to cross the River Thames at Blackfriars.  London seemed to be a mighty busy place for builders as there were tower cranes everywhere.   

The route to Greenwich followed the Thames Path and a cycle route.  After passing under the end of Tower Bridge, we were immersed in narrow alleys surrounded by converted warehouse buildings, many of which are now restaurants.  The river banks were a fascinating mixture of architectural styles with Canary Wharf on one side and housing of all types on the other.

I had two favourite places.  The first was a Lebonese restaurant at Greenwich that served a fabulous lunch for £7.50 and the other a visit to Brunel Museum at Rotherhythe where we were lucky enough to arrive on the first day that the South Shaft was open to the public. The museum celebrates the first bored tunnel in the World designed by Marc Brunel and supervised by his son, Isambard.  It is said to be "the most rhymed about, danced about, sung about and painted about construction site in the World". 

Returning after dark, the lights of London glistened ostentatiously.  Tower Bridge was especially resplendent with the Shard behind.  Crowds were gigantic as seemingly everyone had come out to walk the South Bank.  Those not on the South Bank were at a fair by the Serpentine.  This ride was far removed from cycling Exmoor just two weeks previously.