Thursday 21 November 2019

A CYCLE TOUR ON DARTMOOR

Of all the images that capture the spirit of Dartmoor, I like this photo because it radiates happiness. I enjoy the verdant trees and the glimpse of open moorland behind.
 
 
Dartmoor Way between Bovey Tracey and Tottiford Reservoir
Dartmoor's air is clean and fresh. Birdsong is a welcome distraction. While many associate the landscape with granite tors and wide open moorland, the fringes are a naturalist's paradise and much less visited. The area has much to offer.

The car is not my first choice of transport. This is probably irrational but car journeys are often tedious. My preferred travel choices are bikes for short journeys and trains for longer ones. Dartmoor is not so big that you cannot go there by bike and it is readily accessible from many urban areas.

Imagine my delight last month when I was invited to join a group of 8 to tour the moor over three days on our bikes.  All were regular cyclists but only two, including myself were experienced tourers.  Touring is a different mindset to road and mountain biking.  For a start, bikes are heavier and we go slower to be able to see everything. Coffee breaks and cameras are essential and we go at the speed of the slowest rider.

Every journey on Dartmoor includes seeing ancient woodlands, crossing rivers tumbling off its slopes, cycling up many hills and living in a wild landscape.  The light changes throughout the day and with the seasons. Autumn is a great time as the colours are beautiful. The weather sometimes adds to the wildness so experiencing a hailstorm and enjoying sunshine on the same day is not uncommon

Rain proofs on and waiting for a hail storm to clear

We are all volunteers with two groups from Sustrans. We take out occasional guided rides from Bridgwater and in South Devon. Our philosophy is that cycling should be for everyone so we try to find beautiful journeys and don't set fast speeds.

Both photos below tell stories. I enjoyed the mini challenge on the track between Mary Tavy and Peter Tavy including the river bridge. On another occasion I must climb the summit to take in the views from Brentor Church

Bridge over River Tavy

Brentor Church
At the end of this journey, I was strangely exhausted but not in a way that deterred me as next March our groups have made plans for a three day tour in Somerset. Meanwhile our South Devon group are planning a Primrose Ride for April where we would like others to join us

Thursday 25 July 2019

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY BY BIKE

"The Journey of a Lifetime awaits along 2,500km of Coastal Road" says the website for the Wild Atlantic Way and, as I was looking for a new bike tour that would inspire me, I had to take a look. This is not France, Portugal or Spain. It is Ireland's windswept west coast and the next landmass is the USA nearly 6,650km away. I felt inspired and in 2017, I decided that this would be my next challenge.


Connemara where my friend went wild swimming


In April 2018, I started at Rosslare in Co Wexford for the beginning of my route that would take me along Ireland's south coast to Kinsale, where I would meet the Wild Atlantic Way. I soon discovered that the coast weaves beautifully in and out and it set the scene for my journey of over 2,400km.

Rosslare is a good place to start a bike ride in Ireland. There are ferries from both Pembroke and Fishguard. I travelled with Irish Ferries as the cycle connection at Pembroke is easy using Sustrans cycle route NCN4 and avoids all the traffic. Both Fishguard and Pembroke have train connections to Cardiff and beyond.

Rosslare too is excellent for cyclists and has a very straightforward connection onto Eurovelo cycle route EV1. It is also a pleasant place to start a tour with lots of B+B's and a good Irish pub for dinner.

The Irish Government plans that Eurovelo 1 will be a long distance cycle route through the south, west and north of Ireland. Some sections are in place and I found that the first part through Co Wexford is well signed and easy to follow. Eurovelo 1 contributed to my inspiration as it is the cyclists' equivalent to the Wild Atlantic Way. On my first day, I reached Hook Lighthouse and Co Waterford was a short ferry ride away on the following morning. This was where my first decision was needed. Should I travel on the new Waterford Greenway or the Copper Coast route, much more hilly but very beautiful? I chose the Copper Coast Route and was delighted with my choice. I was now to experience Ireland's great hospitality and wild weather at the same time. Having seen great coastal views and a redundant copper mine, I arrived at my B+B at Stradbally completely soaked but was given a warm welcome and, after a shower, driven a distance of 10km for dinner in Dungarvan.

I discovered that Cork is a fascinating city but suggest avoiding it on the bike as it is very busy with no suitable bike infrastructure. It is far better to cycle into Cobh instead. You should have a day off, stay two nights in Cobh and go in to Cork by train. There is a ferry leaving Cobh and the next place is Kinsale, a bustling place worthy of a another rest day as there is plenty to do. It is also the start of the Wild Atlantic Way.

You don't meet Eurovelo 1 again until Westport in Co Mayo. I used a Collins road map to plan my journey as it shows both main roads and lots of tiny lanes. The Wild Atlantic Way is well signed on the ground.  It is a mixture of main highways and quiet side roads. I soon discovered that it is important to plan each day carefully, partly to try and keep off busier roads but the Way misses out some very scenic places on the coast.  In April, I found that the main roads outside cities are quiet and many rural Irish motorists are immensely respectful to cyclists. There was many an occasion that I was on a quiet lane and unknowingly I had a motorist waiting patiently behind me to overtake, neither tooting the horn nor revving the engine.

The five peninsulas of Mizen, Sheeps Head, Beara, Kerry and Dingle come next. The distance cycling around the coast is enormous but the scenery and hospitality are outstanding. Famed for their jaw dropping coastlines  and mountains looking down over crystal clear waters, you feel that you are cycling into the unknown. Understanding the perils of the weather is fundamental to having an enjoyable bike ride in Ireland. Do be prepared to hunker down occasionally. I have cycled in many types of weather before but Mizen and Sheeps Head were to test me in a way I have rarely experienced. I left Goleen with gales and heavy rain forecast. I was cycling north east and, with the wind behind me, I reached Durrus in no time. My next stop was Sheeps Head itself but this required to turn due west straight into the wind. It was ferocious and thankfully I found a B+B part way. Imagine cycling downhill at 6kph in bottom gear and finding it hard work? This was the end of Sheeps Head when the wind rose to 160kph later that evening. This was an adventure in itself that extended into the next day.  I had to abandon the far west of Beara because of high winds but serenity returned when I arrived on the Ring of Kerry. The sun shone and out came the sun cream. I expected the main road to be fairly busy and had prepared to ride a side road but there was virtually no traffic so kept to the main road. The weather was now angelic and Kerry was gorgeous. So was the Dingle peninsula that followed and I especially enjoyed Slea Head. This was four days that I savoured.

I thoroughly enjoyed the five peninsulas. After leaving Tralee, the coast was more gentle as I headed up to Tarbert where I crossed the River Shannon. I spent two nights at Kilkee and had an enjoyable day storm watching the waves exploding over a reef and seeing tiny turnstones scrambling to get food from the beach. I stopped on the Burren to admire its limestone pavements and patchwork of tiny fields grazed by cattle

Galway was half way on my tour. My journey had been full of drama but I decided to split it into a second visit and come back the following year.

"How are you?" were the first words I heard on my return trip, this time in June 2019. These easy words are spoken as a greeting by everyone in Ireland and give a reassuring friendly feel. Many people speak Irish on the west coast.

I thought that I was entering dreamtime that only got better and better as I cycled through Connemara and Mayo. Rarely have I enjoyed myself so much. I left the traffic of Galway city and cycled into a soft Irish mist as I followed the coast road. I watched gannets diving into the sea and the sun came out to serenade me for many of the days that followed. This is an area of contrasts. Little sandy bays sit within a craggy coastline and behind there is another inland watery landscape with little lochans and bogs everywhere. The backdrop is mountainous. I found the most interesting town is Westport which I have visited often. If you are lucky, you can see Riverdance being performed in its little theatre. On route, Leenane is at the head of a fjiord. It is a good place to stay and you have to pass through here when leaving Connemara into Mayo. It is not possible to follow the coast because there is both the fjiord and a mountain in the way.

Mayo's coastline is huge. After cycling around Clew Bay, Achill's coast must be seen and it is two days ride to reach Blacksod, just a few km north by boat. Mayo has possibly the least populated wilderness area in Ireland and lays claim to be its adventure capital for outdoor sports. I detected an aura of regional pride in Mayo

Sligo was busy and I could not find anywhere to stay so I did not see much of it. The traffic was very heavy too but I knew about the North West Trail Cycle Route from a previous ride. You should take this to Donegal. It is a good route around the edge of the Dartry Mountains then rejoins the coast to Donegal town. Eurovelo 1 starts again in Co Donegal and takes you to Belfast. For a while both cycle routes are on the same lanes. I followed much of EV1  in Co Donegal and except at Loughanure, it was well signed. but it misses some of the north. Donegal's west coast was more built up than I expected but the north and east were well worth the journey. I heard a corncrake at Dunfanaghy, a bird of exceptional rarity.

I rejoined EV1 and followed it across the border into Northern Ireland all the way to Portadown where I left it for my journey's end at Newry. EV1 leaves the Wild Atlantic Way midway between Letterkenny and Derry (where I had been on a previous ride). Expecting the unexpected, I had no idea what Northern Ireland would be like. EV1 had been chosen to take you through the Sperrins, a remote inland mountainous area and I found myself again feeling as if I was cycling into the unknown. It is an AONB and many cycle routes are signed to criss cross it. My favourite town was Cookstown on its SE edge. The route touches Lough Neagh and my final section was along a former canal path into Newry.

I entered Ireland on my second visit through Dublin Port. I want to come back to Dublin for another visit but not with a bike. Like many cities, its infrastructure needs substantial improvement and before I came I was told to be ultra careful. It is 5km from the port into the city centre much of it shared with HGV's and there is no choice with this. However both trains and some long distances coaches take bicycles. My outward trip from Dublin to Galway was with GoBus who gave a good service and the return from Newry was equally good on the train.

Would I go back to Ireland again with my bike? Of course. What was my favourite place? I am not telling. Any dramas with weather? A few.  Below is the route for Eurovelo 1 which I based my journey on


This is the website for Eurovelo 1. My daily maps and lots of photos can be found on Twitter

Enjoy a great adventure

Friday 5 July 2019

THE DONEGAL CYCLE ROUTE




I have just completed five days cycle touring in Donegal. Living in the UK there are a handful of cycle challenges that people seem attracted to. Many of these involve challenging yourself into how many miles that you can do in a day over a long distance. In Ireland, the big challenge is Malin to Mizen which is 427 miles and sometimes known as Top to Toe. Malin Head is in Donegal and is Ireland's most northerly point

What attracts me to cycling in Ireland is its unhurried nature and lure of outstanding scenery. The people are warm and motorists frequently give friendly waves. The very name given to Ireland's iconic "Wild Atlantic Way" asks the question what is wild? Is it the weather, a rugged coastline, the scenery or some other wildness? Here therefore is the challenge as it is to find out the wildness and what more dramatic way than to do it by bike?

Donegal offers choices for cycle touring. There is the Wild Atlantic Way, a route for motorists and Eurovelo 1, a route for cycle tourists. The WAW as it is known is well signed and visits all of Donegal's special coastal places. EV1 is also well signed and takes cyclists away from main roads, except in a few unavoidable places.

I found that Donegal provides lots of those wonderful remote wild places that I enjoy seeing but also the journey needs to be planned carefully because some roads in the south of the county are busy with traffic and I thought that the wildness is gradually being diminished. My favourite part was Fanad, the remote north. It has magnificent wildness both in its coastline and fine rugged inland scenery. It has many beaches ideal for wild swimming and unspoilt landscapes so much liked by wildlife. I heard only my second ever corncrake in Dunfanaghy The first was on Mull several years ago and both were real privilege. I thought that EV1 is a good route and there is plenty of dramatic scenery but it does not go through the far north. I felt that my tour needed a mixture of EV1 and the WAW to gain the most benefit. My photos show scenes found on EV1




My daily distances varied from 32 to 52 miles per day and daily elevational gain was roughly 2,500ft. More photos and daily routes can be seen here

Friday 28 June 2019

A SUMMER CYCLE TOUR IN MAYO, IRELAND

Sometimes a photo asks a question. In this case, where in the World is this?


It could be the Med or the Bahamas or Broome on Australia's north coast, all exotic places and a long way from home. This is Elly Bay on the Atlantic coast of Erris Island in Co Mayo, Ireland. It is still a long way from Devon but you don't need a plane to get there. Erris Island was named as the best place to go wild by the Irish Times in 2014


Mayo thinks of itself as the adventure capital of Ireland. It sits on the north west coast looking out into the Atlantic and this is where I visited next with my bike tour around Ireland's coast. It is an understatement to say that the coastline is enormous. It weaves in and out like the tentacles of a giant drunken octopus. Islands are everywhere you look. Some are connected with bridges, others require a ferry and with some you need your own boat to get to there. Inland there are vast areas of bog and ranges of hills spring up randomly. I would like to say that the coastal strip is flat and mostly it is but now and again there are big hills to be climbed. My passion is cycle touring but here is photo of others enjoying the great outdoors


I enjoyed earlier seeing Galway Hookers, the traditional fishing boats in Galway Bay. In Mayo, they still use currachs, albeit today their skins are fibreglass and here are two in the foreground tied up ready for use




Coming up the coast from Connemara' national park, a fjiord and Mweelrea Mountain, 819m high, block the way into Mayo so a detour inland is required. On route to Westport, another mountain, Croagh Patrick comes into view. Nicknamed the Reek, it is 764m high and a pilgrimage for many Irish people. It is a long bike ride around Clew Bay and I enjoyed a day off in Westport. Achill was worth the detour with spectacular cliffs and kite surfing

I could have spent three weeks just cycling the entire coastline of Mayo but I only had one week so some places have been left out. It was gorgeous and happily the weather was mostly fine so long as the wind was accepted. I weaved in and out of tiny lanes on route to Bangor and twice took wrong turns. I just had to visit Belmullet and Erris Island and here is a photo of Achill taken from Black Sod, the southern tip of Erris


Sadly I missed a section of the north coast, primarily because I could not find any accommodation but it enabled me to see Mayo's spectacular wilderness centre with a backdrop behind of the Nephin Beg mountains, said to be the loneliest area in Ireland

I am keeping daily photos and maps of my route on https://twitter.com/cycle770 so please keep following

Monday 24 June 2019

THREE DAYS IN CONNEMARA

Located in the north west of Co Galway, Connemara is an area of desolate natural beauty and incredible scenery. This is the start of my latest cycle ride around the coastline of Ireland. Local tourism say the best way to see Connemara is by car. Actually it's not. The best way by far is to get on a bike, travel slow and feel the fresh air. Looking at the photo below, I would have missed this place in a car but this delightful spot was easily found down a rough track on our bikes and my friend went wild swimming.


Our first experience from the road leaving Galway City was to see large numbers of gannets diving fearlessly into the sea at a near vertical angle to catch their prey. This is one of nature's wonders.

Galway Hookers are a traditional way of preserving the past and we soon discover a pair tied in harbour


Local people say these vessels are in their DNA, their bones, hearts and heads. Historically they were the traditional fishing boats for the area designed to work in the harsh Atlantic weather and today they live on with many restored and others built new with modern facilities

We cycle through Clifden to Leenaun travelling 130 miles and taking three days. The coast is wild with seemingly unpolluted waters while inland we view boglands and rivers winding their way through numerous small lakes. In the distance there are the 12 Pins of Connemara, a range of mountains providing a stunning backdrop. This is an encouraging start. Please also view twitter for my latest tweets.

Saturday 8 June 2019

IRELAND BECKONS

It's time to call out my new Thorn Nomad and start a fresh journey. Shortly I will be in Galway on Ireland's west coast. I plan to cycle along Connemara's coastline into Mayo, then head north into Sligo and on to Donegal. I hope to smell the sea as I cycle and feel the fresh Atlantic air. I want to see currachs, fishing boats unique to the west coast of Ireland and Slieve League in Donegal, almost three times higher than the Cliffs of Moher. I want also to reach Malin Head, Ireland's most northerly point and I hope to learn a few words of Irish Gaelic.

This will be the Nomad's first long journey. Here is a photo. It was taken on the Cobbly Way beside the River Avon in South Devon. It does not look special except it seems to have no gears. There are 14 inside the rear wheel hub made by Rolhoff. The gear changing is on the right handlebar and is really easy. The bike is made by Thorn Cycles of Bridgwater and is built for long distance touring.
 
 

 
Ireland has a magnetic pull for me. Last year I cycled around its south and south west coasts. Previously I cycled from Lands End to John O' Groats via Ireland and another trip was from Devon to Glasgow via Sligo. I don't have a favourite place but have many memorable moments and often they are associated with the weather. Perhaps last year describes it best for while cycling around the Sheeps Head in a gale I found it extremely hard work doing 4mph going downhill in bottom gear.  Three days later I was on the Ring of Kerry in the most glorious sunshine. Apparently the storm reached 100mph during the night. Please check my Twitter as well if you follow my journey
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Friday 12 April 2019

CYCLE TOURING IN SOUTH DEVON

With its rolling hills, spectacular hedgerows and dramatic coastline, South Devon retains its charm with warmth. For touring, there are many quiet lanes with few motorists so there is time to enjoy the scenery. The route below is 50 miles and takes in the southern tip of Dartmoor down to the coast and back. It is 5,300ft climbing with frequent short hills, some of which are quite steep


My start was Ivybridge and I followed back lanes to South Brent and on to Diptford.  The Cobbly Way is worth a little detour at Avonwick because of its historic cobble track beside the River Avon. For a short while, the route follows the line of the old Primrose Railway which many local people want to see reopened as a cycle trail. I leave it at Diptford but see it again on the return journey at Gara Bridge.
Cobbly Way
 In April and May, the hedgerows are alive with wild flowers with primroses, bluebells, wild garlic and wild campion among others. At Slapton, the sea comes into view and there is a great panorama looking back from where I have come using NCN28 about 400m west of Torcross


Slapton Ley
There are several places for refreshments. The onward route via East Prawle takes in some picturesque tidal creeks. I now head north through Sherford, Gara Bridge, California Cross, Brownston and Sheepham. I found it of interest seeing two of the old railway stations on the Primrose Line, now converted into houses. These, along with quaint hamlets, old pubs, historic farms and much more would not be seen without trying these byelanes

Frogmore Creek


Friday 22 February 2019

FOUR TOP PLACES IN THE UK FOR TOURING CYCLISTS

I HAVE TOURED ALL OVER THE UK and these are four of my favourite journeys. All are rides that offer great challenges, are mainly on quiet roads and the scenery takes the breath away. They are some of the UK's great outdoors

BEALACH NA BA



I cycled Bealach Na Ba in October 2013. It is a single track road rising 2,053ft from sea level with gradients up to 20%. Set in Wester Ross mountains and overlooking the Isle of Skye, it is one of the most awe inspiring roads in the UK. Beware of the weather however and the top was heavy in cloud on my journey.

Coming a very close second was the Figure of Eight on the Isle of Mull. I have done it twice, once in brilliant sunshine and the other in an October gale. The roads are quiet with jaw dropping views and in October listen out for stags calling

THE HEART OF WALES


Wales has three remote scenic long distance routes that converge on Rhayader and this town with its bike shop that doubles up as a pub in the evening must qualify as a mecca for bike tourers. The bike shop has twice got me out of trouble. Head north to Snowdonia, east into the old county of Radnor, south into the Black Mountains and west into the Cambrian Mountains. Follow National Cycle routes 8, 81 and 825 and you will find everything to satisfy a touring cyclist.  Watch out for red kites souring in the skies above

THE ANTRIM COAST


On a clear day, it is possible to see the Paps of Jura, one of Scotland's fabulous Hebridean islands. My first visit was in 2015 and I will going back again later this year. The route is beautiful, rugged   and hugs the coast. It is 70 miles long. Beware weekends and holidays when the road can be quite busy.
Watch out for impressive colonies of sea birds.

DARTMOOR


Dartmoor is home territory for me. Two iconic cycle routes can be found using the Dartmoor Way Website The area is known for its high moors with granite peaks known as torrs while the perimeter is a land of secret valleys with rivers rushing off the moors, ancient woodlands and wildflower meadows.  They are very beautiful when the sun shines but dark and menacing in the mist and when it rains.  Listen for cuckoos in the spring.

Another favourite is to cross the Pennines by bike and I hope to do a new route later this year The Lakes and Dales Cycle Route