Thursday 17 September 2020

MY FIVE FAVOURITE PLACES WHERE I HAVE CYCLED

With forced lockdown from Covid, this year has been very different. My travelling has been on the little lanes around South Devon where I live. My bikes have been busy and the car little used as I have enjoyed the great outdoors in the saddle.  With fewer cars, I have been more conscious of nature.  I have seen baby weasels in the road, numerous birds and I have enjoyed the wild flowers in the hedgerows. I took up cycle touring as a late experience when I discovered that slow travel can be truly one of life's great experiences. 
Cycling destinations: I have been to Cuba, Mongolia, Scandinavia, the Alps, Pyrenees and most recently Ireland. I have taken my bike all over the UK from Shetland and Londonderry to Land's End. 
What bike? My wife bought me a Trek Cyclocross in 2007 and I upgraded it for touring. It has done 41,500 miles. In 2018 I bought a Thorn Nomad and used it to tour Ireland last year. These are some of my favourite places: 
                         NORWAY, SWEDEN AND DENMARK
On route south of Bergen

I have always wanted to visit Scandinavia and what better way to make my first visit than by bike? My journey in 2010 started from Bergen in Norway and I cycled along the beautiful south west coast for 600 miles to the Swedish border. Bergen translates as mountains and it is little wonder that Norwegians love their great outdoors.  I found Norway to be incredibly beautiful. I cycled across islands linked together by ferries and monster bridges.  The scenery was rugged with forests, rocks, lakes and a coastline that weaved in and out like enormous tentacles.  In places there was some of the most challenging cycling I have ever done with steep hills and several mountain trails. Denmark was a happy country and I looked forward to meeting people as they were frequently friendly and often fun.  In Sweden I cycled through Gothenburg to Varberg where a ferry took me to Grenaa.  Sweden's coastline was similar to Norway but less grandiose.  The weather challenged me in Sweden with gales and heavy rain so I did not see it at its best.

                                SWISS JURA AND THE ALPS

I accomplished a mini challenge by cycling up Mont Ventoux. My Alpine journey was over two tours from Bodenzee in Germany to Carcassonne passing through the Swiss Jura on route. The Jura was a primeval mountainous area with dark woods, beautiful wild flower meadows and humble villages. The little lanes were steep and windy.  The traffic in Geneva was challenging but Grenoble was much friendlier. There was lots of climbing through the Alps with gorgeous mountain backdrops. 

                                     MONGOLIA


I have two overriding memories from Mongolia.  I was taking part in a charity challenge organised by the National Deaf Children's Society in 2006 and it was cycling across the Khangai Mountains from the Gobi Desert to Karakorum in the Steppes.  There were 18 of us and the support vehicle was a Russian 6WD troop carrier, a truly awesome beast.  
The extremity of the weather and a race with a Mongol horseman are never to be forgotten experiences. One morning the sun was high in the sky and the temperature reached over 40*C. We needed the wind created by cycling to keep cool because when we stopped the heat was overwhelming. From nowhere, the burning sun turned into a furore of wind that brought in a ferocious thunderstorm. The next day four of us cycled through a blizzard while the others took to the support vehicle.
When we crossed the Khangai Mountains, our guide told us that they were no hospitals or emergency services if we crashed. Ahead of us, there was a long winding dirt track and it was every cyclists for themselves.  Most of us legged it.  I was out on my own when I passed a ger encampment about 0.5 km away. The villagers came out and waved and one jumped on a horse. He came up alongside me at full gallop weaving in front and to the side of me as we sped downhill.  Life does not much more exhilarating than that. He joined us for lunch.
Mongolia is one of the remotest places on earth and much of the country is inhabited by nomads living in gers who look after yaks and goats. All our roads were dirt tracks and most nomads used horses or ancient motor bikes for travel.
                                 
                                       IRELAND


I have been drawn to Ireland since I was young and visited many times. It grows on me with each visit and I am not sure what brings me back. 
Cycling is by far the best way to experience the country. I have met holiday visitors who tell me with great pride that they drive around Ireland in 4 days.  I am not impressed.  It is a country for slow journeys.  I have cycled the coast and through its centre. When I did lejog in 2008, I cycled through Ireland on my journey.  The weather can be unpredictable but this contributes to its charm. If you don't like rain, buy some decent clothes and enjoy some gentle Irish mist, an Atlantic gale and some gorgeous sunshine all on the same day. Savour the dramatic coastline, inland hills and Irish hospitality.  It's worth it.  
                     THE UNITED KINGDOM



The UK offers a dilemma. Where was my favourite journey and why? The west has spectacular scenery throughout while the east has plenty to offer as well. My favourite one day tour has to be the Isle of Mull, one of inner Hebrides but a day ride in beautiful sunshine around the Isle of Harris was equally memorable. The ruggedness, the chance to see white tailed eagles souring overhead and spectacular coastlines gave drama to those day rides.  
Powys in Wales offers drama, outstanding scenery, quiet roads and many people speak Welsh. Kites fly overhead while the rivers look fresh and clear for wild swimming. There are three touring routes that cross Wales and they all come together at Rhayader.  I have done all three. The photo is on the Radnor Ring taken in 2017.
There is much more for me to see in England. I have never done the Lakes and Dales route and this is on my "to do" list. I look forward to a tour around the Lakes and Yorkshire Dales following this route. Locally the Dartmoor Way and West Country Way routes have enabled me to explore the west country at a slow pace away from the crowds. I cycled the C2C in the wrong direction from Newcastle to Workington and found myself cycling into a headwind and the sun. There were lots of cyclists coming in the opposite direction.
I hope that these shared experiences encourage you to have some mini adventures too. 

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