ALPINE MEADOWS IN THE MIST

This morning it was cold and wet when Dagmar, Stefan and I left our hotel. Normally we would not go out in weather like this but we were heading for France and we were up for the challenge. A market was in full swing in the town centre with an inviting selection of delicious fresh produce. We looked without enthusiasm at a huge hill to take out of this city. When half way up, Dagmar's satnav on a rare occasion failed us by taking into a cul-de-sac that involved another hill to lead us out of it. However it was not long before we were cycling through more of those stunning Alpine meadows that we experienced yesterday. The hills took us above the cloud line. We stopped to add extra layers of clothes and as we warmed up we appreciated how the mist gave added atmospheric to this magnificent countryside.

Peddling on, we met a group on their mountain bikes crossing our road above La Sagne. A huge downhill followed where Stefan showed no fear with his bike and trailer arriving in La Sagne well before us. Easier riding now followed to a cafe in the railway station at Les Porits de Martel. The warmth of this place was welcoming and we thawed out sitting beside a large radiator.

Stefan set off on a massive downhill at a speed that would frighten me and when I caught him up at the bottom, he looked at me as if to say "Why are you taking so long?". However I have the legs on uphills and one shortly followed. I had a casual break while waiting at the top. The Gorge de l'Arens followed. We were on a tiny road that twisted and turned its way round the rocks and trees and gave awesome views of the white water river below. There was no time to stop especially as Stefan was throwing his bike around the downhill curves in impressive style. It was time for a break at the bottom.

At the end of the gorge, Stefan had to say goodbye and head for the nearest train station home. His journey was now over. For Dagmar and I, it was overdue for lunch so we stopped in a cafe close to Lac de Neuchatel.

When we left the cafe, it was 3pm. The weather was warmer and the rain had stopped. We cycled along easier roads beside the lake passing through a mixture of woods, camp sites, housing estates and into the town of Yverdon. The sun came out and we stripped down to summer wear. It was now an easy ride and we sped off cycling south in the direction of Lausanne. We decided to stop in a sleepy village if we could find one that had accommodation. Here we are in La Sarraz in the town's hotel. Amazingly the only restaurant open was at the town's swimming pool and it was very good but very expensive. But then everything in Switzerland is very expensive.

JURA, SWITZERLAND

Cowslips were everywhere as we left the Rhine and cycled into the Jura region. These beautiful little yellow flowers are an excellent sign of healthy soils. They were beside our road as we climbed through Gorge du Pichoux. The gorge, small by Swiss standards, towered above us and a little river flowed swiftly the opposite way.  My lights were needed to pass through a couple of tunnels.

Reaching the top we discovered a vast area of open grassland with giant Alpine firs spread haphazardly everywhere. This is cattle and horse country. The cows are Friesian Hosteins producing copious amounts of milk while the horses await their summer holiday visitors still to arrive. The remains of snow drifts could still be seen as we climbed.

At higher levels marsh buttercups, wild daffodils, crocus and other wild flowers carpetted the meadows. My first cuckoo was heard. We stopped for lunch at Bellelay, a town that makes cheese the old way, in Hotel de l'Ours. This translates as Hotel of the Bear. At the farms the cows were still indoors as the grass had not grown enough to let them out. Later two excited children welcomed us as we stopped at a wayside cafe. There are few people here and I suspect the children regarded as novelties. Anyhow they very nervously came up to talk to us gently encouraged by their mother.

The farm houses have the barns attached to the house so cattle, horses and people share the same building. Yet despite their obvious ages, many farms had modern John Deere tractors working in their fields. Our overnight stop is at La Chaux de Fonds.

MAY DAY IN SOUTHERN GERMANY

Last night my bike and Badger arrived by courier exactly when promised. I was very impressed but it was all in bits.

No problem assembling it. Today is May Day here. It is a bank holiday. Many go off on their bikes and walking. It seems many people play practical jokes on one another as well. Dagmar, her partner, Stefan and I meet Stephanie, a keen cyclist and ADFC supporter at the ferry terminal in Friedrichshaven where we catch a ferry to Konstanz and have a day ride cycling west. All is quiet with no practical jokes yet. It is time for coffee in Konstanz and then we peddle off. Dagmar, with Stefan both ADFC supporters, is our guide.

ADFC is the German cycling federation and similar to Sustrans in GB.  The weather starts grey but blissfully the sun comes out. We peddle beside the Rhine and admire picturesque towns, various islands and the landscape. Stephanie and I discuss the differencies and similarities between our countries. We reach the magnificent Rheinfall and are astonished at its grandeur.

Never have I switched between two countries as frequently as Switzerland and Germany. The person who worked out the boundary must have been drunk. One moment we were cycling in Germany, then in Switzerland, then back to Germany and back again. Stephanie leaves us. On a woodland trail shortly afterwards we found a wooden post marking the two countries and the road had become very muddy. Badger was now very happy as he had not been a woodland for months.

We decided to follow the trail into Switzerland partly because a mountain biker said to go this way and partly as it was less muddy. Our day was 105km (67 miles) and we finished to stay in a sports complex that had motel accommodation in Waldshut.

TRAIN JOURNEY TO SOUTHERN GERMANY

I am sitting here in Meckenbeuren beside Lake Konstanz in Southern Germany having successfully crossed Europe by train in 23 hours. I set off taking my bike for what I knew would be a complicated journey. The overnight sleeper train from Plymouth dulled me into semi-stupour but I could not sleep. I arrived in London at 5am, assembled the panniers onto my bike, fixed up the lights and set off to find St Pancras Station. This was a strange experience. I have never seen London quiet before but at 5am there were just a few delivery vehicles and not much more.

I had a companion though. It was Badger who first joined me on my marathon journey around the coastline of the North Sea in 2010. Badgar went around the North Sea twice for he left me to join Dagmar on her journey. Badger went to live in Meckenbeuren with Dagmar until September last year when both visited me in Plymouth. Badger then stayed with me only to go into hibernation until I took him around Dartmoor last week. Badger is to be reunited with Dagmar as we take a two week trip through Switzerland and into France.

Eurostar's rules meant that bike and Badger travel separately from me to Paris and they were booked into a freight terminal. My Eurostar train was eventful only by the snoring from the person behind me and momentary entertainment of a family arguement on the seats opposite. Everything was going well until Paris. I went to collect my bike and Badger only to find that they had arrived early and gone back to London! Aghhh, I cried.  There were long discussions. I was to carry on my journey and my bike would be delivered to Meckenbeuren.  My wife texted to say that Badger had fixed this and it was my fault.  I had kept him too long in hibernation. So not only has Badger gone round the North Sea twice but he now crosses the English Channel three times in a day. I must carry on.

I walk from Paris Nord to Est stations, catch a TGV to Strassbourg, catch another train and another, now in Germany and heading south.

The scenery is very pleasant and it is interesting comparing all the European Trains. I feel like Michael Portillo on his recent BBC TV series on trains. Dagmar comes meet me and my last train arrives after dark in Meckenbeuren.

Meanwhile as I write Badger and my bike have now reached Stuttgart. They are expected here at 5pm this evening

DESTINATION SOUTHERN GERMANY

On Sunday, I set off with my bike by train to the little town of Meckenbeuren.  I am embarking on a 12 day mystery tour to Avignon.  All I know is that I will be cycling through Switzerland, a country I have only ever spent two days in.  Meckenbeuren is located by the beautiful Lake Konstanz and where I meet my buddy, Dagmar who has planned our tour.  All I need now is to embark on 6 trains and a 20 hour journey!

DESTINATION TAVISTOCK BY BIKE

The little lanes across the south west corner of Dartmoor attract lots of cyclists. I wanted to discover some that I had not visited. My first encounter was with two riders on mountain bikes who had just come down an off-road trail from Princetown to the little village of Lutton. Not being on a mountain bike, this needs riding on another occasion.

Starting in Ivybridge I was to discover Drakes Leat, Tavistock Canal, an ancient tramway, an old railway tunnel, several pubs and an Easter market.

Historically, Drakes Leat was built in 16thC to provide Plymouth's water supply from Dartmoor. It still runs in its upper reaches and is in an excellent state of preservation. The Tavistock Canal is also well preserved and links Tavistock with Morwellham Quay on the River Tamar.

I arrived too late in Tavistock to see its Easter market as the stalls were starting to be dismantled. However a flower seller was still busy. An ancient stannary town, Tavistock is always bustling with activity where country people come off the Moor and Tamar Valley to meet townies. 



My journey started in Ivybridge and took me through the quiet village of Cornwood, over the River Plym at Cadover and on to Clearbrook where I met Drakes Trail that comes up from Plymouth. This is now part of a long distance route through France and South West England.  Drakes Leat and the tramway can be found leading north from Clearbrook. Continuing the journey, I stopped for lunch at Yelverton then peddled on and into Tavistock.

The tunnel was quite fun to cycle through as it was tricky seeing cyclists coming the other way due to the low lighting so it took a bit of guesswork to check where they were. To follow what I am up to next, please check out twitter

IVYBRIDGE TO SALCOMBE BY BIKE

It is not an easy ride to Salcombe.  There are hills and there are evils.  Evils are very steep hills.  The cycle route (NCN 28) more than compensates with its deep insite into Devon's South Ham's beautiful countryside and outstanding coastal scenery.

My first encounter was with John.  He loves his bike but loves horses more.  Today John was on route to the hunt alongside other horse riders.  I had just passed the hounds.  John had earlier asked me if I would set the trail for the hounds on my mountain bike.  I foolish said that I might but luckily he has not taken me up on that.

The rural heart of Devon is special.  Bullocks stare as you cycle past lonely farms, buzzards frequently swoop close overhead, people stop to talk, at Aveton Gifford there is a homely community shop and you can stop for a swim at South Milton beach.  The waterside settings and wildlife are all special places and finally the butcher in Salcombe sells superb local pasties.

At Salcombe there is a ferry across the estuary where you can cycle on to Slapton and Totnes.  I turned round and went back the same way. 

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